[TheForge] oil finish

[Larry and Pat Brown]

Taking it off is what I want to avoid, will if I have to but I want a 
miracle cure. The same ingredients out of the same cans  worked fine 
several months earlier.
Larry B


At 07:29 AM 8/3/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>That was the question I answered - better quality (true boiled) linseed oil,
>and more dryer.
>
>Once it's on and staying sticky - you gotta take it off and start over.
>
>Ralph
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Larry Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
>To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 11:06 PM
>Subject: Re: [TheForge] oil finish
>
>
> > My question is how do I make it un sticky?
> > Larry Brown
> >
> >
> >
> > At 06:40 PM 8/2/2005 -0400, you wrote:
> > >Bruce, Thanks.......that "polymerization catalytic" was what someone else
> > >had mentioned that boiled Linseed did.......       Me, .........I just
> > >wonder why the hell the stuff stays sticky!  :-)
> > >
> > >Ralph
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Bruce Freeman" <FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com>
> > >To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > >Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 8:51 AM
> > >Subject: Re: [TheForge] oil finish
> > >
> > >
> > >I was wondering about that word.  I'm not sure there is a simple word for
> > >what you mean:  promoting polymerization.  Perhaps "polymerization
> > >catalytic"?
> > >
> > >Bruce
> > >NJ
> > >
> > > >>> brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com 8/2/2005 7:24:15 AM >>>
> > >Ooops, that was supposed to read Polymeritic action.......  If that's
> > >spelled right?
> > >
> > >Ralph
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
> > >To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > >Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 6:57 AM
> > >Subject: Re: [TheForge] oil finish
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi Larry, I've had some similar problems with plain or mixed linseed
> > > > finishes in the past.
> > > >
> > > > Adding Japan drier to the mix will help the slow poermaritic action
>that
> > >is
> > > > SUPPOSED to occur with BOILED Linseed Oil ................but you can
>see
> > > > the key word is BOILED!   Some of these process plants use the osmosis
> > > > machines to "boil down" the oils (like boiling sap for sugaring) and
>it
> > > > doesn't leave the oil so it will dry well is my findings.   I purchase
>the
> > > > true boiled linseed oils (which is usually twice the price of the
>other
> > > > cheaper versions and it works well for drying.
> > > >
> > > > Of course the temperature is a consideration in the winter months -
>three
> > > > day drying times can be expected - where on a sunny summer day with
>dry
> > >air
> > > > and no humidity you can see results in half the time or less.
> > > >
> > > > Ralph
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Larry Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> > > > To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > > > Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 9:18 PM
> > > > Subject: [TheForge] oil finish
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I have a piece I made using an oil finish that won't dry past the
>tacky
> > > > > stage. I used the same ingredients about 6 months before and mixed
>them
> > > > the
> > > > > same way and had no problem. This piece won't dry it's been over two
> > > > > months. Can linseed oil, turpentine or drier go bad? Anyone else
>have
> > >this
> > > > > problem? Solutions?
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > L Brown
> > > >
> >