[TheForge] oil finish

[David E. Smucker]

Larry,

Try this before heating off the old finish and starting over.  Take a cap 
full of Japan dryer and add to 4 or 5 oz. of mineral sprits and then brush 
this on, (or spray) over your existing finish.  Let dry for a day or two. 
May or may not work.  I have used this treatment to get an oil finish on 
wood to "set up" and to remove any sticky finish from the surface.

Dave Smucker
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] oil finish


> My question is how do I make it un sticky?
> Larry Brown
>
>
>
> At 06:40 PM 8/2/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>Bruce, Thanks.......that "polymerization catalytic" was what someone else
>>had mentioned that boiled Linseed did.......       Me, .........I just
>>wonder why the hell the stuff stays sticky!  :-)
>>
>>Ralph
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Bruce Freeman" <FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com>
>>To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 8:51 AM
>>Subject: Re: [TheForge] oil finish
>>
>>
>>I was wondering about that word.  I'm not sure there is a simple word for
>>what you mean:  promoting polymerization.  Perhaps "polymerization
>>catalytic"?
>>
>>Bruce
>>NJ
>>
>> >>> brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com 8/2/2005 7:24:15 AM >>>
>>Ooops, that was supposed to read Polymeritic action.......  If that's
>>spelled right?
>>
>>Ralph
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
>>To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 6:57 AM
>>Subject: Re: [TheForge] oil finish
>>
>>
>> > Hi Larry, I've had some similar problems with plain or mixed linseed
>> > finishes in the past.
>> >
>> > Adding Japan drier to the mix will help the slow poermaritic action 
>> > that
>>is
>> > SUPPOSED to occur with BOILED Linseed Oil ................but you can 
>> > see
>> > the key word is BOILED!   Some of these process plants use the osmosis
>> > machines to "boil down" the oils (like boiling sap for sugaring) and it
>> > doesn't leave the oil so it will dry well is my findings.   I purchase 
>> > the
>> > true boiled linseed oils (which is usually twice the price of the other
>> > cheaper versions and it works well for drying.
>> >
>> > Of course the temperature is a consideration in the winter months - 
>> > three
>> > day drying times can be expected - where on a sunny summer day with dry
>>air
>> > and no humidity you can see results in half the time or less.
>> >
>> > Ralph
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "Larry Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
>> > To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> > Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 9:18 PM
>> > Subject: [TheForge] oil finish
>> >
>> >
>> > > I have a piece I made using an oil finish that won't dry past the 
>> > > tacky
>> > > stage. I used the same ingredients about 6 months before and mixed 
>> > > them
>> > the
>> > > same way and had no problem. This piece won't dry it's been over two
>> > > months. Can linseed oil, turpentine or drier go bad? Anyone else have
>>this
>> > > problem? Solutions?
>> > > Thanks
>> > > L Brown
>> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>
>