[TheForge] Re: TheForge Black oxide finish

[Devon Headen]

Not sure exactly how the mailing list software works, so if this screws up
just tell me :). I'm not sure what you mean by black oxide finish, but I get
a black finish that I've never had rust by simply heating your piece to a
fairly high red heat, then quenching in waste oil. After it flames up and
stops smoking, take the piece out. It should be dripping oil. Just wipe the
oil off and there you have it. You probably already knew that and it's not
what you're talking about, but cut me some slack, I'm new :-P

Devon Headen


> "Robert B. Miller" wrote:
> >
> > Hi, Folks:
> > I am new to the list (this is my first post) although I have I have read
Ron Reil's accumulation as well as a few in the archives. I am making a door
knocker that needs to match a mass-manufactured door pull with a flat black
oxide finish. I have found some commercial products for a cold oxide finish
(I want to stay away from the hot oxide) but most systems are much more
money than I want to spend on a $100 door knocker. Can anybody offer some
advice on how to get a good flat black oxide finish cheaply? It has to be
something that won't rub off, and applied after pickling to get the scale
off.
>
> Heat's pretty much it, just less of it.  Pickle, if you must,
> then neutralize.  Hit the work with a torch, or toss it into
> the forge just until it turns black.  You will be at perhaps
> 800*F. Remove, let cool to about 400* and take a rag that is
> well dampened but no soaked with linseed oil.  Apply a thin
> coat of the oil to the work.  It will smoke, which is a good
> thing as the oil will polymerize in the heat.  Don't let the
> work be too hot or it won't come out as well.  Don't soak it
> too much or it will not fully polymerize, leaving it either
> wet or tacky when cold.
>
> When you have it right, the piece should be mostly "dry" and
> will have a slight gloss.  The color should be a nice deep
> black.  I would not go too nuts-0 about trying to get a
> Pantone match for color.  As you said, it's a $100 door knocker
> and for that money one cannot reasonably expect too much.
>
> Let it set over night and by morning the surface should be
> completely set up.  It is a great finish and even outside it
> would last if the doorway is protected from direct exposure
> to rain.
>
> You can use cold blues, but that will take a lot of time and
> effort.  I have used Winchester cold blue, which produces a
> beautiful blue black, but it is a pain in the ass to do it,
> what with perfectly clean surfaces, applying the blue, boiling
> the piece to force the color reaction to take place...  I would
> not do it for that money.   I guess the other thing you can do
> is take it to a shop that does hot bluing and see if they can
> match a color... not sure what they would charge, but I'd be
> almost willing to bet it would be too much, especially if there
> is any sort of special setup.
>
> Use heat. :)
>
> Best wishes.
>
> -Andy
>
>
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> End of TheForge Digest, Vol 8, Issue 19
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