[TheForge] tig setup

Thu Sep 9 12:00:20 EDT 2004

Another way to start the arc on a TIG torch with out contaminating the
tungsten is to use a carbon rod or block. Touch the carbon to the part then
touch the tungsten to the carbon to start the arc and away you go.
Darrell

http://www.machinemaster.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 4:16 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] tig setup

> Hi Bill,  Most of my tig gear is ancient.  My torches are all fixed
> head........what is this flex head style torch you mention?  I guess
that's
> one I haven't seen.  Does this mean the head twists from the gas valve on
> the handle? (which mine does) or the head flexes in the plane of the
handle,
> which I think would be really a nice option.
>
> On Starting: I've done lots of scratch starting with a copper plate to
keep
> from contaminating the tungsten as much.
>
> Hi Freq accessories: I now have an old Miller 300 that has hi freq that
> works sometimes when the points aren't corroded or in a bad mood.  Also I
> have one of those hi freq starter boxes I picked up at a tailgate session
at
> one of our meets for $100.  It's a Lincoln and has settings for use on
> transformer or solid state arc control.
>
> Pedal vs thumb control: I have thumb controls and foot pedals for both
rigs
> and use the one that best suits the job. Nothing like a foot pedal when
your
> bench assembling and going to be there a while.  The thumb control is nice
> when your out on a job like a swimming pool ladder or resteraunt sink
repair
> and you arent' in a standing position  to use a pedal.  I once used a tig
> unit that had no form of rheostat..........it worked, but the trick was to
> get the heat set right - which means getting it set for the majority of
the
> run and just waiting a few more seconds on the start to form the initial
> puddle from cold.
>
> Comments on gasses: I've always used Argon for the shielding gas on Tig.
> The Nitrogen in a plasma cutter is for the ionized nitrogen beam which is
> what a plasma arc is.  The addition of C02 into Mig gas is it makes the
wire
> burn hotter and dig more.  Argon is for shielding and flow out (and I
> understand it is heavier than C02)...........and if you happen to have
your
> company buying the Helium mixes.....or you've got jobs that pay for it - I
> understand the helium is good for aluminum and stainless for cleanliness
of
> weld.  I've never had a problem with just Argon to get by with what I do
> though.
>
> I'm not sure about every arc welder being able to be used for Tig.  I
think
> the old "constant potential machines" are not up to the task - where a CC
> (Constant Current) machine is.  The constant potential was when they kept
a
> real high arc starting current on the machine and it would light the arc,
> then drop to the welding current..........so it would be hard to control
> that start up arc on those old machines as they could be twice the
amperage
> needed to run the arc.  I believe it was called open curcuit voltage and
was
> almost twice the actual welding voltage for first lighting the stick. (I'm
> not an electrical guru - so I'm throwing out what I've heard)
>
> I also had one of these constant potential welders years ago and hooked a
> tig torch to it.........not water cooled, no foot pedal, and scratch
> start........it worked, but not well by any means.
>
> Mike Schermerhorn..........thanks for that explanation of the migration of
> carbon in the stainless welds that yeild rust at the edges..........good
> info.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Woolley" <wjande at erols.com>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 10:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] tig setup
>
>
> > Rick,
> > I'm with Reis on the scratch start issue.  IMO you don't need a foot
> > pedal or a cooling unit to get started.  In fact,  I prefer a flex head
> > air cooled torch.  I've done alot of  tig  welding in a field and shop
> > setting without needing a cooling unit.  For a novice I think you get an
> > advantage with a flex head torch because you can position them better
> > and they are pretty small in the first place.  High frequency start is
> > for AL, you don't need it for steel.  Foot pedals are nice for AL, and
> > close tolerence light gauge stuff where you need more control.  I use
> > one when I weld AL and actually find it cumbersome to use.  You have to
> > position the pedal and your body in relation to the work etc, just
> > another thing to deal with.  My Miller inverter power source(304CC) has
> > a setting for tig where you ground your electrode to the work and when
> > you lift it, it starts.  It's called  Lift Arc I think, and it's a nice
> > feature but I normally just scratch start with good results. Like
> > anything else it just takes some practice.  Having to set your heat at
> > the machine is part of the process.  If you don't initially do that you
> > never get a feel for what kind of heat you need for different materials,
> > thicknesses, etc.  My two cents.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bill Woolley
> >
> > RICK KORINEK wrote:
> >
> > >I am also looking to get into TIG welding.  Here is the set-
> > >up I have been thinking about until I can purchase a bigger
> > >rig:
> > >
> > >I would use my 250 amp stick welder and buying a water-cooled
> > >torch. For the cooling unit, I thought I could use the
> > >condensing coil and fan from an old window air conditioner.
> > >For the pump, I would use a small coolant pump from a band
> > >saw.  As for shield gas, I would need to buy a regulator and
> > >use a gas solenoid controlled by a foot switch.
> > >
> > >The 2 down-sides I see are: the scratch start and the need to
> > >crank the amp adjustment handle on top of the welder to
> > >increase/decrrease the arc current.
> > >
> > >I would appreciate any criticism on this approach. Thanks.
> > >
> > >-Rick
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