[TheForge] tig setup
Ries Niemi
rniemi at fidalgo.net
Mon Sep 6 13:53:28 EDT 2004
On Monday, September 6, 2004, at 10:27 AM, Gladish Family wrote:
> OK, here's my dumb question for the month:
> I'm wanting TIG capability really bad and I think I'm halfway there
> because
> I have an AC/DC 250 amp stick welder.
> Am I?
> Is there any point to using what I have as a power source?
> Or can you do that?
> Better to just start over and get a complete rig?
> Thanks for any ideas!
> Andy Gladish
Andy- to start out with all you need is a scratch start setup-
an aircooled tig torch, about 150 bucks.
A regulator or flowmeter,
and a tank of argon.
the aircooled torch does not require a radiator, and it has a manual
valve on it to turn on and off the shielding gas. You hook it up to
your welder in place of the stinger, open the valve, and scratch it on
the grounded work. Pull back, and you have a tig arc.
It is best to start out with DC. AC is really hard to do without high
frequency, which is another 800$ accessory.
And start on mild steel. While it is technically possible to DC tig
weld aluminum without high frequency, at least certain alloys, almost
nobody can actually do it.
But for steel,stainless, or any copper or bronze alloys, you should be
able to use your stick welder, for a couple of hundred dollars. Buy a
few extra tungstens, as with a scratch start torch you contaminate the
ends much quicker than with HF, so you need to take em out and sharpen
em more often. But it works, just fine. We were running a second tig
setup that way when we built the fish bridge a couple of years ago, and
while it is frustrating when you are used to a $3500 all the bells and
whistles setup, it gets the job done.
ries
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