[TheForge] Upsetting the middle of a bar

[John Switzer]

I have done several similar projects lately.  What I found worked best for 
me was to heat with a torch and rosebud to keep the heat as short as 
possible.  When heating I set up an "L" shaped stack of 2 fire bricks (one 
flat and one on it's side) and hold the bar just off of the surface of the 
bricks.  This forms a makeshift spot heating forge and the bar heats up 
much faster and hotter than just holding it out in mid air (saves time and 
propane cost) (an oxy - propane torch would also save).  Once hot I slam 
the bar end on a floor plate or anvil to upset.  If you cut the bars double 
length and do the upsets for two pieces before cutting you will have twice 
the bar weight to upset with and it will go much faster.  Keep the heat 
short and straighten after every heat.

John Switzer


>Y'all:
>I have a stair and a parapet railing to make with about 60 balusters,
>each having a long leaf forge welded near the middle of each bar.  My
>stock is 5/8 square.  I am looking for a simple way to upset each bar
>for the weld and am not having much luck.  I have used my coal forge
>with a fairly narrow fire on some and on others, a rosebud to make the
>heated area shorter.  I have been using a 2-1/2" depression in a swage
>block as a base and either a 4# hand hammer or a special tool for my air
>chisel that is a cup about 3" deep.  Either way the process seems far
>too slow.  If I use the air chisel and keep the rosebud on the stock
>constantly at almost a welding heat it barely upsets the metal even
>after 5 heat/upset/straighten distortion cycles.  Using the hand hammer
>seems to be the fastest way, but even that way it still takes 5 heats or
>so.  Is there something basic I'm not seeing here?
>
>  Stephen McGehee
>  Publisher of
>  Irony, the sketchbook of an apprentice blacksmith
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>  (479) 643-3299 (farm)
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>
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>
>
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John Switzer
7019 Burnt Mill Rd
Beulah, CO 81023
(719) 485-3109