[TheForge] Upsetting the middle of a bar

[Walter L. Mullett]

I think this is a good setup but there is only one item missing here.  I'm 
assuming this is laying on a table....You have the stock restrained at the 
sides above and below the point and at the end of the stock but I think you 
need a simple piece across the stock to keep it from lifting up.

Just an idea....  What if you made a two piece pipe sleeve that you could 
place in your H frame press and be supported laterally by the press.  If you 
had a bucking block set at the bottom for the baluster you could just drop 
your heated stock through the sleeve and engage the jack.

The sleeve should be almost the same ID as the stock and only keeps the 
piece straight so all of the force goes to the upset.  The top sleeve could 
be the same size with a larger nipple threaded on in the upset area or some 
other spacer that allows for the upset yet supports the stock laterally.

Walt
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "terry l. ridder" <terrylr at blauedonau.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Upsetting the middle of a bar


> hello;
>
> comments/reply below.
>
> On Wed, 27 Oct 2004, Stephen McGehee wrote:
>
> stephen>
> stephen> Y'all:
> stephen> I have a stair and a parapet railing to make with about 60 
> balusters,
> stephen> each having a long leaf forge welded near the middle of each bar. 
> My
> stephen> stock is 5/8 square.  I am looking for a simple way to upset each 
> bar
> stephen> for the weld and am not having much luck.  I have used my coal 
> forge
> stephen> with a fairly narrow fire on some and on others, a rosebud to 
> make the
> stephen> heated area shorter.  I have been using a 2-1/2" depression in a 
> swage
> stephen> block as a base and either a 4# hand hammer or a special tool for 
> my air
> stephen> chisel that is a cup about 3" deep.  Either way the process seems 
> far
> stephen> too slow.  If I use the air chisel and keep the rosebud on the 
> stock
> stephen> constantly at almost a welding heat it barely upsets the metal 
> even
> stephen> after 5 heat/upset/straighten distortion cycles.  Using the hand 
> hammer
> stephen> seems to be the fastest way, but even that way it still takes 5 
> heats or
> stephen> so.  Is there something basic I'm not seeing here?
> stephen>
> stephen>  Stephen McGehee
> stephen>
>
> disclaimer: i have not tried this so ymmv.
>
> ascii art:
> looking down at a table.
>
>
> hydraulic              +---------------------------------------+ angle
> cylinder               |  side support                         | iron
> ---------+  ram        +---------------------------------------+++---+
>         |---------+  +----------------------------------------+||   |
>         |         |  |             picket                     |||   |
>         |---------+  +----------------------------------------+||   |
> ---------+             +---------------------------------------+++---+
>                       |  side support                         |
>                       +---------------------------------------+
>
> the idea is to notch the side supports where you want the upset.
> 0. apply heat to picket at notch.
> 1. engage or hand pump hydraulic cylinder to place the picket under
>   compression.
> repeat steps 0. and 1. as needed.
>
> -- 
> terry l. ridder ><>
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>
>