[TheForge] MIG setup

Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer artgawk at thegrid.net
Sun Oct 24 01:00:11 EDT 2004


A little elaboration on Frosty's point.
If you live where it's damp for long periods or there is salt in the 
air...then  arc welder  connections  are apt to get funky...just a 
little corrosion yields resistance than heats the connection  each use 
and the heat cycling  loosens things up some more, encouraging further 
deterioration. Especially AC tends to vibrate  fastenings loose all the 
way to the meter box.
Given the problem you describe, it's worth methodically disassembling  
and cleaning down to bright metal, all the major connections, starting 
from the stinger and ground clamp and working back wards. Open up the 
case , vacume the gurry out of it and go to work on the connections in 
there too. I spray the reassembled connections with that battery 
corrosion inhibitor afterwards...though there's probably something better.
It's best if the connections between the lead cables and the clamp, 
plugs and stinger are soldered here on the coast. The working ends heat 
cycle everytime you weld.
Double check where the cables flex near the ends. Pull the power plug ,  
scrape the  tines and check the internal connections.
The next thing to suspect is the power switch on the machine. The old 
ones, at least, can be taken apart and the contacts dressed if there's a 
problem.
Check for excess heat buildup all along the cables after welding...it 
indicates resistance and a problem.
An other possibility....are you looping long runs of cable around a 
steel support? Induction can induce problems.
And so on....hope thes helps.....Pete F

Jerry Frost wrote:

>Rick:
>
>While 7018 can be a little finicky it usually strikes just fine if your
>ground clamp is on clean steel. A poor ground is the most common headache I
>run into.
>
>One trick is to use a slight brushing motion instead of tapping straight
>into the steel.
>
>Another trick for restriking a stick is to tap the end on the cement floor,
>brick, a rock or other hard object to break the coat of slag that can form
>on the end. Don't tap too hard or you'll break the flux coating, you just
>want to break the slag right at the tip.
>
>Straight or reverse polarity doesn't seem to make a difference for me. I
>usually run 5/32 at 90-105 amps. My main welder is a Lincoln Ranger 9
>portable.
>
>Frosty
>------------------------
>If it ain't forged
>it ain't real.
>Wrought iron is.
>The FrostWorks
>
>Meadow Lakes, AK.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "RICK KORINEK" <rickkorinek at rcn.com>
>To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 1:41 PM
>Subject: Re: [TheForge] MIG setup
>
>
>  
>
>>Ralph,
>>Hello.  I have a related polarity question.  I was making a
>>top die block for my 50# LG.  It is a platform with the
>>dovetails which will take replaceable dies (similar to the 2-
>>piece bottom dies that Sid sells, and you make).  I was
>>welding the die block together--making the dovetails out of
>>pieces welded together.  The question is about using 7018
>>rod. I purchased some 1/8" rod to use for this application.
>>I had a hell of a time getting the arc to start.  I have a
>>small (180 amp) stick welder.  Even at full current, I could
>>not draw an arc.  Finally in frustration, I abandoned the
>>stick machine and went back to the MIG machine and welded the
>>die up with 60k tensile wire.
>>
>>So, my first question is:  Is 7018 just plain hard to start?
>>Also, what polarity I should have set up for the 7018?  And
>>would this make a difference for start-up?  My welder was set
>>up with the electrode on the "Smooth arc" connection and the
>>ground wire on the "common ground" connection.  There is
>>a "Forcing arc" connection point that I know nothing about.
>>Do you have any wisdom to sprinkle on this situation.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>-Rick
>>
>>Ps.  I will forward the draft article I wrote about the
>>Fitchburg event to you.
>>
>>
>>---- Original message ----
>>    
>>
>>>Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 16:27:08 -0400
>>>From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
>>>Subject: Re: [TheForge] MIG setup
>>>To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>>
>>>Hi John,  General rule is reverse polarity for hard wire and
>>>      
>>>
>>dual shield
>>    
>>
>>>wires(electrode positive) and straight polarity for strictly
>>>      
>>>
>>flux cored wire
>>    
>>
>>>(electrode negative).
>>>
>>>There are exceptions for some of the flux cored wires.
>>>
>>>Ralph
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "John Switzer" <switz at mindspring.com>
>>>To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>>Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 11:16 AM
>>>Subject: [TheForge] MIG setup
>>>
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>>>Ok, here is my chance to show my ignorance.  I took three
>>>>        
>>>>
>>semesters of
>>    
>>
>>>>welding & now that I have bought a wire feeder so that I
>>>>        
>>>>
>>can MIG weld I
>>    
>>
>>>>don't recall if you MIG with electrode positive or
>>>>        
>>>>
>>negative.  I seem to
>>    
>>
>>>>remember something about one way for MIG and the other for
>>>>        
>>>>
>>Flux wire.  Any
>>    
>>
>>>>help is appreciated.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks
>>>>
>>>>John Switzer
>>>>7019 Burnt Mill Rd
>>>>Beulah, CO 81023
>>>>(719) 485-3109
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>_______________________________________________
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>>>>___________
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
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>>>
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>Rick Korinek
>>Emerald City Forge
>>Framingham, MA
>>_______________________________________________
>>Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
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>>theforge mail list group photo site is
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>>password:  anvil
>>___________
>>
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
>theforge mail list group photo site is
>http://www.photoaccess.com
>Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
>password:  anvil
>___________
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>
>
>  
>




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