[TheForge] Hardy questions

[David E. Smucker]

Chris,  Thinking some more about your question about "something welded to 
top".  Can you see the line on both sides of the rail?  The action of the 
wheel flange will cause the head of the rail to roll to the inside.  This is 
especially true on the outside rail from a curve.  Some railroads had or 
have special equipment to grind this cold working off of the rail from time 
to time.  This is also why rail would be re-laid (still is) to use the other 
side of the rail head as the inside or flange side of the rail.  Over it's 
service life your rail may well have seen service as both the right hand and 
left hand rail.

Dave
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Kilpatrick" <crimsonkil at lycos.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Hardy questions


My guestimations had it at 128#/yard, so 133# is not out of the question. 
it is 7+" tall and the foot is 6" wide and the railhead is 2 3/4" wide.

-Chris K.

----- Original Message -----
From: "David E. Smucker" <davesmucker at hotmail.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Hardy questions
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 21:17:13 -0500

>
> Most rail is close to 1080 with about 1 % mag.  By the very nature of it's
> service requirements rail is very good stuff.  It makes great tools --
> hammers, cutting tools, woodworking tools, almost anything you would make
> out of a 1060 to a 1095 steel if buying stock new.  Not sure about you
> comment about the formation at the top of the rail other than work
> hardening.  How heavy is your section?  Rail is measure in weight per 
> yard.
> (not weight per foot)  This is almost always noted on the side of the rail
> along with the year of manufacture.  I just pick up some scrap rail that 
> was
> 85 pounds per yard made in 1928.  This is small rail for normal railroad
> use -- most main line track being in the range of 133 pounds per yard. 
> Rail
> was often re-laid -- moved from mainline service to siding or yard use to
> get more life out of it.  Some rail is weld repaired when used in areas 
> like
> switch frogs but not over longer lengths that I know of.
>
> You can use rail for lots of things -- just know that it is high carbon --
> don't quench it unless you want it very hard.  For things other than tools 
> I
> would use mild steel and save my rail road rail for tooling.
>
> Dave Smucker
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Chris Kilpatrick" <crimsonkil at lycos.com>
> To: "SCA Metalsmiths" <ekmetalsmiths at yahoogroups.com>;
> <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 12:10 PM
> Subject: [TheForge] Hardy questions
>
>
> Hi folks,
>      Just got a bandsaw for Christmas (early, I know) I have been reducing
> some railroad rail into hardy sized pieces, have several questions:
>      First, it appears as if the rail had a 1/4 piece welded to the top of
> the rail (there is a clear line where this section stops)  Are 
> appearancess
> deceiving?
>      Secondly, I have come up with plans for spring fuller dies as 
> follows:
> flatter dies, drawing dies, vee dies, veining dies, various round and 
> square
> dies.  I also have come up with bending forks, rivet bottom tools, several
> small stake anvils.  Any suggestions on what other tooling UI can make 
> from
> RR rail?
>      By the way, I have no power hammer, so all suggestions need to be
> slanted to hand hammering.
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> Chris K.
>
> It is I who formed the blacksmith,
> who fans the flame into a fire and
> fashions a weapon fit for it's work.
>
> -- 
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It is I who formed the blacksmith,
who fans the flame into a fire and
fashions a weapon fit for it's work.

-- 
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