[TheForge] Acoustical baffling for compresor

Walter L. Mullett wmullett at bright.net
Mon Jul 26 10:22:26 EDT 2004


Those that told you to insolate the sound as close to the source as possible
were steering you in the right direction. The blanket or an insulated box
enclosure are your best options.

-----Original Message-----
From: PlumDon at aol.com <PlumDon at aol.com>
To: theforge at mailman.qth.net <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Date: Monday, July 26, 2004 7:29 AM
Subject: [TheForge] Acoustical baffling for compresor


>
>Thanks for all  the great suggestions re quieting the compressor. I am, as
>you might expect,  looking for the quickest and most inexpensive solution.
It's
>beginning to appear  there may not be one that is quick and inexpensive. I
>also need to go back and  look more closely at the compressor. Where is the
sound
>actuall coming  from?
>I like Jim  Binnions note on the blanket but cant get in to online ordering
>at that site and  it may be quite expensive. Also thinking of a drop down
wall
>of ceiling tiles  hinged at alternating sides with duct tape.
>Unfortunately I  need it's full capacity of about 20 cfm when running
either
>the Skat Blast or  Old Blue so cannot reduce capacity on the compressor.
>Lot of great  ideas and I thank you, kindly.
>Don  Plummer
>You can buy  sound dampening blankets that are basically 1"-2" thick
quilted
>fiberglass  blanket covered with an aluminized cloth. One trade name is
>Sorba-Glas  http://www.industrialnoisecontrol.com/absorb.htm
>Mostly I'm  reinforcing what others have said, with one addition: do you
>really need  that much air?
>You'll probably  have to enclose the compressor to really deaden the
sound.I
>had the same  situation with a  portable generator, and a big plywood box
with
>ceiling  tiles inside worked wonders. Of course, air intake and exhaust
>baffles were part  of the construction. Not hard to figure out.
>One method I used  was staggering the 2 x 6 studs on a 2 x 8 plate and
>shoe......and then weave the  fiberglass insulation between the studs prior
to
>sheathing.
>The energy of the  sound waves needs to be  either absorbed or dissipated
>in some harmless  direction
>We bought 18  linear feet of foam for a 12' run of ceiling, looping it and
>nailing strips  about every foot, so it was UUUUUU like that, with much
more
>surface  area.
>but in addition to  the sound panels what about a muffler style design on
the
>air input to break  up/disperse the wave front ?
>I have used egg  crate mattresses to reduce noise in the past. The results
>were OK best part was  they were free.
>If you build   dry-stack walls of  cinder block, cover it with surface
>bonding  cement  to hold it together ( fast and cheap). and fill it with
sand for
>absorbant mass it won't retransmit the sound. Add an absorbant surface
inside (
> sound tiles, egg crates, etc) and  that'll shut it up
>for sure. Sinking  it in the ground is also a possibility. What a lot of
>work.
>Fiber glass  is good for absorption, our anechoic chamber used  pyramids
and
>wedges of fiber glass  contained by wire mesh as the  absorber. I would
>suggest sticking with fiberglass for home made  absorption systems.
>
>If you are going to experiment with  foam for absorption be very careful,
>most foams are very  flammable
>Have you tried  getting a dog.  If you tie it up, your neighbors will not
>even notice the  compressor over the barking. ;-)
>
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