[TheForge] power hammer
Ralph Sproul
[email protected]
Sat Jan 17 07:20:01 2004
Shannell, I think I'll leave it in Austrailia for a tourist
attraction, but thanks for the note as I was wondering how the differential
worked without further reduction.
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shannell Sugrue" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] power hammer
> Take a look at mine on anvilfire
> http://www.anvilfire.com/power/jyh/sugrue/jyh-au.htm
> I used a pulley to get a speed reduction then the 3:1 or so in the diff, I
> used the main bearings in a 6cyl engine block as the guide for a machined
to
> fit, heavy wall pipe, the bearing material from the mains is great too,
you
> can tighten the caps until its as tight as you want. Its still sitting in
> the shed if anyone want to come get it lol...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andy Vida" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 10:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] power hammer
>
>
> >
> >
> > Ralph Sproul wrote:
> >
> > > My initial thought was the differential would have some serious drag
to
> it
> > > for a 1HP motor.........did it work well or was it sluggish due to
this?
> >
> > The hammer, as I recall, worked very well and appeared to be
> > very responsive. When I say I was very impressed, I meant
> > that as an all around qualifier. I think this would make a
> > very good basis for, say, a kit hammer. Use of an axle out
> > of an old drag car (shortened) would decrease the footprint.
> > The differential would probably last more than a lifetime even
> > with heavy use.
> >
> > > Are they running the electric motor into the drive shaft end with a
> > > coupler - then using the differential as the clutch and drive? or do
you
> > > need a jack shaft to cut the motor speed to something usable on the
> output
> > > end of the differential?
> >
> > I'm not sure I recall. There may have been a jack shaft. Anyone?
> >
> > > A 1750 motor cut to 4:1 ratio speed is still in
> > > the 400 RPM range - so I'm not seeing how they are accomplishing a
> running
> > > speed unless they slip the brake thru the whole operation?
> >
> > Well, if you find a diff with, say. 5.88 or 6.12 gearing
> > (again, from an old drag car or street rod)
> >
> > 5.88s would give 297 bpm, whic is right in there. 6.12s
> > produce 285. You could even use an old truck axle with
> > 11.xx or lower for a heavier and slower hammer.
> >
> > This solution leaves you with comparatively little work
> > because almost all the precision work is done for you.
> > Find a suitable guideway, and you're good to go. I
> > was thinking that the cross slide from, say, a 20"
> > swing or larger lathe might provide a superb basis
> > for a ram and guides. It is dovetailed and complete
> > with gibb adjustments built in. The dicey part is
> > welding to the cast iron, and that's not so hard if you
> > take your time. If you machine your linkages with
> > good accuracy so as no to load the ram in the wrong
> > directions, I see no reason why a well maintained
> > hammer should not last as long as a factory made specimen.
> >
> > Another great guideway would be a box-type bedway from a
> > large junked CNC mill or a dovetail way from a CNC lathe.
> > They are precise and very strong.
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