[TheForge] power hammer

[Shannell Sugrue]

Take a look at mine on anvilfire
http://www.anvilfire.com/power/jyh/sugrue/jyh-au.htm
I used a pulley to get a speed reduction then the 3:1 or so in the diff, I
used the main bearings in a 6cyl engine block as the guide for a machined to
fit, heavy wall pipe, the bearing material from the mains is great too, you
can tighten the caps until its as tight as you want. Its still sitting in
the shed if anyone want to come get it lol...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Vida" <osan@netlabs.net>
To: <theforge@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] power hammer


>
>
> Ralph Sproul wrote:
>
> > My initial thought was the differential would have some serious drag to
it
> > for a 1HP motor.........did it work well or was it sluggish due to this?
>
> The hammer, as I recall, worked very well and appeared to be
> very responsive.  When I say I was very impressed, I meant
> that as an all around qualifier.  I think this would make a
> very good basis for, say, a kit hammer.  Use of an axle out
> of an old drag car (shortened) would decrease the footprint.
> The differential would probably last more than a lifetime even
> with heavy use.
>
> > Are they running the electric motor into the drive shaft end with a
> > coupler - then using the differential as the clutch and drive? or do you
> > need a jack shaft to cut the motor speed to something usable on the
output
> > end of the differential?
>
> I'm not sure I recall.  There may have been a jack shaft.  Anyone?
>
> >  A 1750 motor cut to 4:1 ratio speed is still in
> > the 400 RPM range - so I'm not seeing how they are accomplishing a
running
> > speed unless they slip the brake thru the whole operation?
>
> Well, if you find a diff with, say. 5.88 or 6.12 gearing
> (again, from an old drag car or street rod)
>
> 5.88s would give 297 bpm, whic is right in there.  6.12s
> produce  285.  You could even use an old truck axle with
> 11.xx or lower for a heavier and slower hammer.
>
> This solution leaves you with comparatively little work
> because almost all the precision work is done for you.
> Find a suitable guideway, and you're good to go.  I
> was thinking that the cross slide from, say, a 20"
> swing or larger lathe might provide a superb basis
> for a ram and guides.  It is dovetailed and complete
> with gibb adjustments built in.  The dicey part is
> welding to the cast iron, and that's not so hard if you
> take your time.  If you machine your linkages with
> good accuracy so as no to load the ram in the wrong
> directions, I see no reason why a well maintained
> hammer should not last as long as a factory made specimen.
>
> Another great guideway would be a box-type bedway from a
> large junked CNC mill or a dovetail way from a CNC lathe.
> They are precise and very strong.
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