[TheForge] switchplate

[Jerry Frost]

I'm in whole hearted agreement with you about production work, it's one
reason I didn't take up metal spinning. However, I gave it some more thought
after sending my last post and there's a better way to do it.

Using one die to do it all is a mistake. As you point out there're too many
different types of switch plate.  The only sane way is having a few
different dies. Electrical boxes are standardized so you only have to match
a couple dimensions.

The #1 die would be the screw hole/counter sink die. Two stops would index
the holes for s single plate or first pair on a multiple, then use the
punched holes and index pins for 2,3,4 gang boxes. It doesn't matter how
large or what shape the plate is, the screw hole spacing is a constant.

Switch, outlet, GFI, etc. plate dies would all index off the screw holes and
so it wouldn't matter if it was a single or sixtysextuple box you'd use the
same die. Also, for the larger holes say an outlet, punch them one at a time
and turn it around for the next one or the next five.

What I suggest takes nothing away from the craft, it simply eliminates what
is basically drudge work. If by our age we can't accurately measure and lay
out our work we should probably seek another profession. <grin> What using
labor/time saving tools and devices does is free us up to really apply our
skills where they count.

Put another way, I see this in the same way you see using new steel rather
than spending time scrounging, identifying and recycling  scrap steel. A
hundred years ago we'd be recycling everything in a "traditional" manner,
today it's not cost effective. These types of die have been around a lot
longer than cheap steel so "period" shouldn't be an issue.

Put yet another way I like the idea of making 10 $100 items in the same time
as making 10 $10 items. Oh okay I have a conscience, I'd charge a fair price
but being able to make the tooling has value as does the skill to do it by
hand and I'd charge a sight more than $10.

Basically this is a class of tool that takes the pain out of production
work, no different than an acorn die. No matter how we try to avoid it, if
we want to pay the overhead we will end up with production runs every now
and then.

Frosty
------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.


----- Original Message -----
From: "George Dixon" <george.dixon@mindspring.com>
To: <theforge@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] switchplate


> Hi,
> Sorry for the delay in responding.
> I appreciate the suggestions, which are very appropriate for production
> work.  I don't do switchplates often and when I do, they are often
> varied in size (# of switches - outlets) or shape (placement of
> switches).  http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/2gang.jpg  Corners are
> usually different per room and preclude one-swat tooling (as does the
> infrequency of orders).
>
> As a result, I have tooled-up for efficiency while maintaining a
> pronounced hand aspect to making them.  I started by chisel-cutting the
> blanks......
> http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/switchplate-test.jpg   After this test
> (years back) I went to punching the sheared blanks.  A sheet metal shop
> sheared them and I made a drill jig to guide drilling.
> http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/sp1.jpg  This time I had the blanks
> lazer-cut, with holes.
> I figured there is not an advantage chisel-cutting a bunch of parallel
> lines.  The "art" is well satisfied by how the blank is textured, broken
> (the bevels around the edge) and how the corners are decorated and chased.
>
> The use of chisel-cutting in decorative work makes sense, and it's fast.
>  In mechanical work, like a switchplate blank, it makes little sense
> unless there are only a couple to do....and even then.....     This is a
> light test piece and the project strip itself, all chisel-cut. 16g steel
> & 16g naval bronze.
>  http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/chisel-cut.jpg
>
> As to the counter-sinks.  The switchplate needs to have a stand-off
> under each screw head so that the plate (plastic or metal) does not draw
> in too far.  I have (used to drill) the screw holes at 1/16" diameter.
>  The tools shown here is the 'male and female'.  They both have holes
> drilled for a 1/16" diameter guide pin.
>  http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/sp2.jpg  The block on the 'female'
> aspect is depressed to receive the stand-off 'dimple'.
> The guide wire rises from the depression through the switchplate into
> the 'male' tool. http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/sp3.jpg
>
> http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/sp4.jpg
> The resulting depression in the plate is then drilled to fit the switch
> hardware (screw).  This step is last if the front of the plate is to be
> chased.  Otherwise, the dimple keeps the plate up in the air when
> chasing is going on.
>
> As to the 'value added' aspect of a switchplate.......  they are like
> ladles......  fun to make, impossible to get real money for (almost)
> because they have a common-place reality that keeps most folks from
> seeing them as necessary to decorate.  On occasion, switchplates are
> good, then I'll do 'em (good = $120 to $350 per).
>
> I make a pretty hard rule that the shop  (me + 1) does not do any long
> runs or repetitive types of work.
> My approach to tooling is to keep it as non-specific as I can.  This
> both pushes hand skills and keeps the 'tool box' better able to do more
> with less.  My approach would not work for a production market, but I'd
> rather make 1 $100 item than 10 $10 items (or gawd forbid...100 $1 items).
> I firmly believe that if you pursue money that you may find some, but if
> you pursue excellence then money happens.
>
>
> George Dixon
> metalsmith
>
>
>
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