[TheForge] switchplate

[George Dixon]

Hi,
Sorry for the delay in responding.
I appreciate the suggestions, which are very appropriate for production 
work.  I don't do switchplates often and when I do, they are often 
varied in size (# of switches - outlets) or shape (placement of 
switches).  http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/2gang.jpg  Corners are 
usually different per room and preclude one-swat tooling (as does the 
infrequency of orders).

As a result, I have tooled-up for efficiency while maintaining a 
pronounced hand aspect to making them.  I started by chisel-cutting the 
blanks......
http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/switchplate-test.jpg   After this test 
(years back) I went to punching the sheared blanks.  A sheet metal shop 
sheared them and I made a drill jig to guide drilling.     
http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/sp1.jpg  This time I had the blanks 
lazer-cut, with holes.
I figured there is not an advantage chisel-cutting a bunch of parallel 
lines.  The "art" is well satisfied by how the blank is textured, broken 
(the bevels around the edge) and how the corners are decorated and chased.

The use of chisel-cutting in decorative work makes sense, and it's fast. 
 In mechanical work, like a switchplate blank, it makes little sense 
unless there are only a couple to do....and even then.....     This is a 
light test piece and the project strip itself, all chisel-cut. 16g steel 
& 16g naval bronze.
 http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/chisel-cut.jpg

As to the counter-sinks.  The switchplate needs to have a stand-off 
under each screw head so that the plate (plastic or metal) does not draw 
in too far.  I have (used to drill) the screw holes at 1/16" diameter. 
 The tools shown here is the 'male and female'.  They both have holes 
drilled for a 1/16" diameter guide pin. 
 http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/sp2.jpg  The block on the 'female' 
aspect is depressed to receive the stand-off 'dimple'.
The guide wire rises from the depression through the switchplate into 
the 'male' tool. http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/sp3.jpg

http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/sp4.jpg
The resulting depression in the plate is then drilled to fit the switch 
hardware (screw).  This step is last if the front of the plate is to be 
chased.  Otherwise, the dimple keeps the plate up in the air when 
chasing is going on.  

As to the 'value added' aspect of a switchplate.......  they are like 
ladles......  fun to make, impossible to get real money for (almost) 
because they have a common-place reality that keeps most folks from 
seeing them as necessary to decorate.  On occasion, switchplates are 
good, then I'll do 'em (good = $120 to $350 per).

I make a pretty hard rule that the shop  (me + 1) does not do any long 
runs or repetitive types of work.
My approach to tooling is to keep it as non-specific as I can.  This 
both pushes hand skills and keeps the 'tool box' better able to do more 
with less.  My approach would not work for a production market, but I'd 
rather make 1 $100 item than 10 $10 items (or gawd forbid...100 $1 items).
I firmly believe that if you pursue money that you may find some, but if 
you pursue excellence then money happens.


George Dixon
metalsmith