[TheForge] Damascus warpage and blade rivets

Mon Feb 23 12:49:00 2004

 now I know why they are no animals around or near Dan`s shop (GRIN)don't
move the blade in the water and if doing a water do a interrupted
quench---1sec ,in====1sec.out===2secin, three sec. out ==3sec.in4sec.out
5secin the blade should be cool and hard  if you slice the water you should
not get warps if you do check to see if you are forging it the same on both
also its best to do a thermo cycling before hardening
place blade in forge bring to non-mag,bring out wave it in the open air till
it goes black do this three times the 4th time do the water quench ,this
will bring grain size down and improves the steel   ,
hope this helps
but practice  water is fast but I thinks it makes the blades stronger .
   ill check back in later  but for now im hunting road kill ,just to be
sure im not overlooking a process that might work.  I bet that's what Dan
tull does )GRIN) while were talking about shop tips -----never sneeze while
wearying a full face shield
bowie
----- Original Message -----
From: "gblacksmith" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Damascus warpage and blade rivets


> Dan:  Warpage can be caused by several factors, acting alone or in
concert.
> These are, in my experience:
>
> 1.  Uneven forging.....failure to forge both sides of the billet evenly,
on
> each axis.
> 2.  Uneven annealing....do you preheat your annealing medium?  Do you use
> one?
> 3.  Grinding too thin, or unevenly, before quenching.  Thin sections cool
> differently than thick
> 4.  Improper quenching technique or quenching medium.  Some steels do not
do
> well with a water quench, which is more drastic than an oil quench.  What
> are you using?
>
> The fact that some , but not all of your blades are warping suggests a
> variation in your technique, between blades,  somewhere along the process.
> In the words of the great bladesmith Karl Schroen:  "Think uniformity of
> process."
>
> Or, if you prefer science fiction over science you can:
>
> 1.  Pour ice water over your head while quoting Buddhist sutras (or
praying
> the rosary) before quenching
> 2.  Quench your blades pointing in certain, mystical directions.
> 3.  Quenching your blades ONLY in the piss of wine-drinking bishops
> 4.  Rubbing your body with the body of a dead animal (a small household
pet
> will do nicely)
>
> Myself, I prefer the scientific method.  The rivets you are seeking are
> called "cutler's rivets" or "brake-shoe" rivets by some;  These can be
> purchased through any of the knifemaker's supply houses, or at hardware
> stores that have fastener sections supplied by Servility, Inc or any big
> supplier.
>
>
> Yours in Science
>
and
> in fiction
>
>
> Grant
>
>
>
> ---- Original Message -----
> From: "Daniel Kretchmar" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 11:55 AM
> Subject: [TheForge] Damascus warpage and blade rivets
>
>
> > Curiousity,
> > 1.    Several of the last few blades I have done have warped during the
> the
> > hardening process.  I have attached the steps below.  What am I doing
> wrong?
> > 2. Anyone know where I can get the 2 part copper/brass rivets that have
> end
> > up having flat heads on booth sides of the knife handle?  I think one
fits
> > inside the other.
> >
> > Dan
> > www.irontreeworks.com
> > Steps
> > 1. Make the billet
> > 2. Anneal the billet
> > 3. grind the blade and drill the tang
> >
> > ****This is where it warps*****
> > 4. Harden (heat to orange and quench in water)
> >    ****This is where it warps*****
> >
> > 5. Temper the blade (cover the edge in clay, heat back of knife to straw
> > color, let cool
> > 6. finish sand and polish.
> > 7. dip in acid to release pattern
> > 8. Attach handle (sand handle to fit)
> > 9. sell for $14,000,000.00  :)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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