[TheForge] Re: forge design

[K Donahoe]

Chuck,

Let me see if I've got the process right.  Take your domed ss, drill
slightly oversized holes for your screws every 4-6 inches; fill with
refractory to the same shape as the dome; run stainless screws through
holes/refractory to a length about 0.5" less than the kaowool blanket you're
going to shove onto the screws, after you've coated them with satanite/itc
100.  Does that sound about right?

I'll have to cruise the University district after school starts for a
stainless beer keg ;)

Kevin

    ------Original Message-----
    -From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
    -[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Chuck Robinson
    -Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 12:39 AM
    -To: Sponsored by ABANA
    -Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: forge design
    -
    -
    -Hey Ralph,
    -Yes it holds up pretty well. Any reasonable arch or dome seems
    -to work .
    -If you drill the screw holes in the shell slightly over screw
    -body diameter,
    -you can easily replace any screws that deteriorate.
    -If you knock a piece of wool off the sides or roof  of the
    -forge, it can
    -easily be replaced by saturating a chunk of wool in satenite slurry and
    -stuffing it into the gap with a pair of tongs with the gas idling. The
    -repair takes less time than it takes me to write about it.
    -I also found that making the shell from Stainless steel not
    -only makes it
    -corrosion resistant but also makes it very easy to see areas
    -of the forge
    -that need extra insulation or repair. The vivid oxidation
    -colors  don't lie.
    -
    -When I used to visit the gigantic Blacksmith shop at the
    -Yokosuka Naval Base
    -in Japan, they had about 40 diesel fired forges that ranged in
    -size from a
    -small dog house  to one that would hold a 1 ton truck.
    -Most of the forges had the same basic shape- a rectangular box
    -with a arched
    -roof.
    -The front wall, with the burner located in the center, was
    -higher than the
    -opposite wall.
    -This gave the arched roof a lopsided tilt. ( I'm sure it was
    -designed that
    -way to improve flame efficiency.)
    -The sides hade large arched openings that could be made
    -smaller by stacking
    -fire brick in the openings.
    -
    -If I can find a photo I'll send it to you.
    -Chuck
    ------ Original Message -----
    -From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
    -To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
    -Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 6:53 PM
    -Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge
    -efficiency.
    -
    -
    -> Thanks Chuck, this is another good approach.  I remember reading a
    -workshop
    -> you fellows had that you did this option of the screws..........so it
    -holds
    -> up well ehh?
    ->
    -> Just curious if you've tried a domed lid?  What radius did
    -you use......or
    -> was a just part of an arc?
    ->
    -> Ralph
    ->
    -> ----- Original Message -----
    -> From: "Chuck Robinson" <robi5515 at bellsouth.net>
    -> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
    -> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 12:55 PM
    -> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge
    -> efficiency.
    ->
    ->
    -> > Hey Ralph,
    -> > Doming the forge top works better than a flat top in both
    -castable and
    -> > inswool refractory.
    -> > I use the casting needles in the castable/ ramable
    -refractory, and S/S
    -> wall
    -> > board screws in the Inswool. I space the screws about 4 to 6 inches
    -apart
    -> > over the whole surface of the metal skin.
    -> > Make sure the screws are about 1/2" shorter than the
    -inswool thickness
    -and
    -> > coat the screws with satanite before pushing them into the inswool.
    -> > Chuck
    -> >
    -> >
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