[TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge efficiency.

[Marc Godbout]

Hi, Ralph. I did use a tank. I cut the ends off of a 30lb propane
cylinder, then cut the cylinder in half lengthwise. The two half were
welded end-to-end to get my 18" length. I was going to try a bigger tank
and not have to weld, but these are wider than what I was going for. The
30lb is the same diameter as a 20lb - 12". The next higher sizes start
at 14".

I find the hinged front and back very useful for wider things like lamp
bases. It's much quicker than jacking up the roof and re-arranging
bricks.

The castable insulating refractory seems to be holding out real well. No
falling rock yet :-). I also embedded some SS needles in the mix. It's
supposed to help hold things together when cracks happen. 

If I were to do it again, I would probably use Kaowool for the roof
insulation. The castable was a pain to mold. I would think the
flexibility, compared with the M-board, would make it withstand the
falling-pole problem. Maybe. But the simple cut-and-stuff would seem to
be a simple way to insulate.

The weight isn't bad at all. I think the roof, without the burners, was
35 lbs. That's 18"L X 12"wide (outside dimension), with 2" - 2 1/2"
insulation thickness. The bigger tanks would have been a bit heavier, as
they're 14" wide and the shell is thicker.

As for getting a smaller insides, I've got a sliding rear wall with a
"mousehole" cutout for long stock. This back wall is carved to match the
arched ceiling. If I ever want to move the side walls in, I think I
would just add a brick inside, instead. But I haven't ever tried that,
and I'm not so sure why I would need to. The way the burners are mounted
I get a decent enough spot heat.

--Marc

On Sun, 2004-08-01 at 18:58, Ralph Sproul wrote:
>     Hi Frosty,  These considerations on how to build a forge "top/ceiling"
> were my
> head scratchers as well.  I opted for the Kaowool M board as it is
> hard/rigid
.
.
.
>      However, I see the picture on Marc Godbout's page of a domed roof with
> castable refractory as an insulation and it makes sense to me.  It appears
> he used a tank of sorts - and made his ends hinge up for more room to stand
> something in his forge. BUT when the lid is considered as a unit, it can be
> sealed
> around it's perimeter.
>     I think I'd leave these ends closed or welded on the domed tank
> approach - be it a tank or a barrel with ends - and thus
> solve the "sealing the ends" problem when moving in the bricks.  
> 
-- 
Marc Godbout
http://www.ironringforge.com

New England Blacksmiths Membership Director
http://www.newenglandblacksmiths.org