[TheForge] Re: TheForge digest, Vol 4 #641 - 3 msgs

Sat Sep 27 09:12:00 2003

Mike, If your ram won't stay up without a lot of oil, you need a ring on
the tup. You can try a thicker oil also to give more compression .
Also- 1 hp electric motor = 3hp gasoline motor, if you can go electric.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 3:01 AM
Subject: TheForge digest, Vol 4 #641 - 3 msgs


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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Quiet Day (Jerry Frost)
>    2. Re: flypress (Ed F)
>    3. Re: Quiet Day (Mike Spencer)
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 1
> From: "Jerry Frost" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Quiet Day
> Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 19:28:14 -0800
> Reply-To: [email protected]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Linn" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 6:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Quiet Day
>
>
> >
> >
> > I took a shower this morning so I kinda thought it wasnt me.
> >
> > But its been much more quiet than normal...
> >
> >
> > mike
> >
>
>
> Better than being more normal than quiet!
>
> Frosty
> ------------------------
> If it ain't forged
> it ain't real.
> Wrought iron is.
> The FrostWorks
>
> Meadow Lakes, AK.
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 2
> From: "Ed F" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] flypress
> Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 23:27:48 -0500
> Reply-To: [email protected]
>
> I read from the Houston area smiths that Gold Machine in New Jersey
> sometimes has them.
>
> Ed
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Smolen" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 10:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] flypress
>
>
> > Steve,
> > If you had to double the length of the bump or give up some travel,
would
> > you still find the press useful? Obviously, I am on the fence about
buying
> a
> > screwpress. I wonder if it would be satisfactory. I have never seen
a
> > flypress for sale so figure a screwpress is the next best thing
short of
> > buying a new  import from India. How did you find your press?
> > Thanks,
> > Bob.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Smith" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 6:23 AM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] flypress
> >
> >
> > > My flypress moves about 5/16" for a typical swing where you keep
your
> > > hand on the handle (you don't "let fly"). This amounts to about
one foot
> > > of travel around the perimiter. So mine moves roughly 3" if you
move the
> > > handle in a full revolution.
> > >
> > > I never end up using it that way, I use short blows repeated, such
as
> > > you would do in splitting a groove.
> > >
> > > Steve Smith
> > >
> > > Bob Smolen wrote:
> > >
> > > > David,
> > > > Thanks for the info.
> > > > The difference in the screw was my understanding as well. How
much
> > > > difference does the extra travel of a flypress make in the use
of
> > tooling? A
> > > > 3 start 3tpi (as on a flypress) will move the ram 1" per rev of
> > handwheel. A
> > > > single start will move it 1/3 of an inch. If a full turn of a
> screwpress
> > > > goes 1/3inch, that would push a punch or splitter nicely .Is
that too
> > much
> > > > effort for using tooling?There aren't many times when 1/3 in.
movement
> > in
> > > > one stroke  is obtained thru other means. I have seen the
pictures of
> > guys
> > > > forging tenons with a flypress.  I am not as interested in
forging
> with
> > a
> > > > press, more interested in quiet use of tooling. Can somone
comment
> based
> > on
> > > > their experience?
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Bob
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "David E. Smucker" <[email protected]>
> > > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 6:21 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: [TheForge] flypress
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>One major difference is the screws.  Most screw presses or
tryout
> > presses
> > > >>used in a die shop are built with a single tread on the screw
(screw
> > tread
> > > >>starts at on point.)  This is slower acting but produces high
force or
> > > >>tonnage.  The flypress now being sold for blacksmithing have
mutli
> > tread
> > > >>screws.  Some up to four treads starting at the same point.
They have
> 4
> > > >>time the lead for the same pitch of thread.  This means that the
screw
> > > >>advances 4 times as fast as a single screw.  Still a lot of
force but
> > not
> > > >
> > > > as
> > > >
> > > >>much as a single tread -- but 4 times the speed.  Said to be
"better"
> > for
> > > >>forging.  Really depends on what you are doing.
> > > >>
> > > >>Dave Smucker
> > > >>----- Original Message -----
> > > >>From: "Bob Smolen" <[email protected]>
> > > >>To: <[email protected]>
> > > >>Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 10:39 PM
> > > >>Subject: [TheForge] flypress
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>Can someone explain the difference between  the popular
flypress used
> > by
> > > >>>blacksmiths and the screw press or tryout press used in die
shops.
> How
> > > >
> > > > are
> > > >
> > > >>>they different?
> > > >>>Thanks,
> > > >>>Bob
> > > >>>
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> --__--__--
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 02:18:26 -0300
> From: [email protected] (Mike Spencer)
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: [TheForge] Re: Quiet Day
> Reply-To: [email protected]
>
>
> Well, I'm not at Quad State so here's some idle chat for a slow day:
> update on my air hammer project.
>
> The Chevy Cavalier is now tethered to the hammer body with a couple of
> short pieces of steel belted tire tread.  Makes a slightly flexible
> mount so that (my) sloppy engineering won't rip metal.  Bolted an ad
> hoc clamp to a tie rod.  So the wheels can't turn and the (front left
> corner of the) car can't move more than about an inch.
>
> Made an external throttle lever, so now the thing can be run single
> handed.  Start the car, put it in gear, turn on the head light switch
> (wired to the electric fan), get out and rev up until the hammer
> begins to turn.  Rev up more until the tup will stay in the UP
> position.
>
> No longer quite so hair-raisingly scarey but still ummm.... exciting.
>
> But the load on the car is about like pulling a horse trailer full
> of Percherons uphill.  Boils over pretty soon.  Have to build a rad
> mount for the old truck radiator I picked up today and re-attach the
> fan and tranmission cooler pipes.
>
> Gotta learn how much oil to give the hammer.  I got kinda free with
> the oil and it started to rain oil mist from the exhaust bell and emit
> smoke.  (Blue smoke, not red or green, so it's probably okay. :-)
>
> Tup hits the top cover occasionally.  Not good.  I know I re-installed
> all the parts of the valve that's supposed to prevent that, even used
> a new spring.  Tune-up time, I guess.
>
> Lower die is staying in place okay so all that grinding and lapping
> was worth it.  The anvil moves a bit but I can't really tell  how much
> until the foot treadle is working.
>
> Next step is to make a treadle and counterweight so I don't have to
> operate it with the hand lever.  Then I can try it on a piece of
> hot iron!  For a first project I'm thinking of drawing an old anvil
> out into 1/4" square for little hooks or maybe some fancy blade stock
by
> forge welding a Buick together. :-)
>
> - Mike
>
> --
> Michael Spencer                  Nova Scotia, Canada       .~.
>                                     /V\
> [email protected]              /( )\
> http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/   ^^-^^
>
> --
>
>
>
>
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> End of TheForge Digest