[TheForge] Heat Treating Hitch Pins

Fri Sep 19 12:08:02 2003

Most of that kind of hardware is medium carbon steel.
I would do a spark test to determine how to harden it.
Then I would normalize it 3 times before doing any hardening.
You want to reduce the grain size as much as possible.
If you harden medium carbon steel and then draw it back, you undo most of
the effect of the hardening step.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "gblacksmith" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Heat Treating Hitch Pins


> Ed:  I would use extreme caution in heat treating shock-susceptible pins.
> If you make them brittle, they will break vs. bend.  A bent pin may hold,
> but a broken pin might not.  If you fully harden this pin, I would
recommend
> tempering it back to a full blue color.  I would recommend tough over hard
> in this application...oil vs. water quench and temper to blue from
> brightened steel.
>
>
> Grant
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 5:05 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Heat Treating Hitch Pins
>
>
> > Ed,
> >
> > You can buy a new pin at any farm store for a buck or two. My guess
would
> be 1045. I would heat treat as you described. If it didn't seem to get
hard
> enuf quench in water.
> >
> > Bob
> > ____
> >
> > >The neighbor sold me a grain wagon and lent me a hitch pin, which I
> noticed
> > >was bent when I got home.  It's a standard looking one.  I know someone
> here
> > >has played with these things.  I'm wondering if after I heat it to
> > >straighten it if and how it should be heat treated.  Oil quench and
then
> > >temper?
> > >
> > >Come to think of it, I wouldn't know how to run tempering colors on the
> > >whole thing.  I'm used to chisles and stuff.  Can I just pass a torch
all
> > >around it until I see the color I need?
> > >
> > >Ed
> > >
> > >
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