[TheForge] hobart handler problem

[Larry and Pat Brown]

Andy

If you have an electric appliance that has a 30 or above breaker you can 
tag onto the breaker with a pigtail out of the box to try it at full power.
First I would take the cover off and look around for bad connections. Mine 
uses a double pole contactor that splits the load across two contacts, came 
with a 15 now it has one a little heavier, 35 or 40, if one contact is bad 
it has to pass the input current  on just one. If you know how check the 
diodes with a ohm meter, I've fried mine and it becomes quite 
uncooperative, this could be a culprit, though I never checked to see what 
the current draw was when they went. Mine now has 4 instead of two. Check 
the terminals on the output capacitor (Looks like a beer can) to see it 
they are loose or cooked.

Duty cycle, We don't heed no duty cycle!!! (We buy replacement parts)

Be careful, unplug it
Larry


At 09:08 AM 9/10/2003 -0700, you wrote:

> > I have an old one, black case, and if I remember it is rated for 28 amps
> > input. How does it seem to weld? any changes?
>
>On "4" it stutters a lot, regardless of wire speed setting, like the current
>is going somewhere besides into the weld.
>The other settings seem to be normal, unchanged, work ok.
>This unit is designed to run on a 15a circuit, though it used to have a peak
>draw of just a squeak over 18a at the highest setting.
>
> > How old is
> > the machine? I have had no mercy on mine and had to replace a few parts.
>
>Two years or less. The welding shop says it's rated to draw that much (Like
>you said!), and that it may be a supply problem...
>Andy G
>
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