[TheForge] Problems with propane burner

Wed Sep 10 07:59:05 2003

Marc,  I'm looking forward to our next "web committe get together" so I can
check this new forge out!

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Godbout" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Problems with propane burner

> Well, opening the doors did the trick. I set the m in their normal
> configuration and all is well with the world. I'll throw some replies
> below anyway for the terminally curious.
>
>
> On Sat, 2003-09-06 at 23:04, Jerry Frost wrote:
>
> > How long is the tube straight before it begins the sweep? You might try
> > giving it 8" of straight tube before it hits the 90*. This should allow
good
> > induction and give the mix a head of steam before it makes the bend.
> >
> FWIW, there's maybe 4/5" of perfectly straight tube, then about another
> 2" - 3" before the tube changes direction enough to be in the way.
>
> > Ah indeed! Good, I wasn't able to get a cross for mine and had to drill
the
> > "T" for the supply. Using a pipe nipple though leads me to another
thought
> > and that's the distance between the jet and the tube's throat. I use
1/8"
> > lamp rod so it's adjustable. Lamp rod and 1/8" pipe are the same thread
but
> > the pipe is tapered where the lamp rod isn't. When you tap a fitting for
> > lamp rod you have to creep through with the pipe tap or the lamp rod
will
> > wobble, making alignment almost impossible. When I tap the hole I only
go
> > till the lamp rod will just pass, this means making 1/4 turns with the
tap
> > wrench, backing it out and trying the lamp rod till it goes. I also use
a
> > locknut to help hold it straight and lock it in position.
>
> I got the cross fitting from McMaster-Carr. Unfortunately my local
> plumbing suppliers don't carry these. They're about $10, I believe, so
> that's a little more than I like to spend for such a thing. The nice
> thing is that there's plenty of room for in-and-out adjustment of the
> jet.
>
> My attachment method was to an untapped hole through the plug for the
> nipple, which is secured by a set-screw. I use a lamp union (if that's
> what they call lamp parts) at the end of the nipple and a lamp bushing
> in the other end of the union. The bushing just happens to have the same
> thread as the mig tip, 1/4 X 24. And there's enough thread in the nipple
> to make a nice, tight, fit on the lamp union. I silver soldered the
> whole thing anyway to make sure it was gas-tight.
> >
> > If you can block one intake port without effecting performance you're
> > feeding it way too little, try either chasing the 0.035" to 0.040" or
try a
> > 0.045" mig tip.
>
> The .035 mig tip is already .042, IIRC. I think that's a #57??? Anyway,
> covering the intakes does affect the flame at the high end. I'll need to
> add a choke to keep scale down.
>
> > Something that'll help is assembling as much as possible before you
drill. I
> > have a lathe but but before I drill I assemble the "T", bushing, tube
and
> > make match marks so I can reassemble it later and have it as aligned as
> > possible. Still, the first one I made before I had the lathe set up and
had
> > good luck assembling it all first.
>
> Another thing I've heard of people doing is soldering the tip directly
> to copper tube. That give lots of flexibility to adjust. I haven't tried
> this myself, but a person I know says it works well. Securing it in
> place with setscrews pinches the tube, so I suggested using a
> compression fitting in the plug and running the tube straight through
> that. That seems to work fine.
>
>
> > Also, Ralph's tube is straight for a goodly distance before it hits the
> > bends.
> >
> That's true, too. Maybe that's a key. Plain old threaded, though, is
> definitely not the way to go.
>
> > Lastly I could certainly be wrong about wider turns being better than
> > tighter ones. Smooth could well be much more important than radius.
> >
> Maybe. But since the conduit is both smooth and wide (there's a sexist
> joke in there somewhere, I'm sure) I have both bases covered (I hope).
> > >
> >  >
> > > I think the first thing to try would be to put the doors in their
normal
> > > resting place. That will leave a 4" X 8" opening in each end. Another
> > > cheap thing would be to try a straight 10" length of 1" nipple instead
> > > of my conduit bend.
> > >
> >
> > I agree, try opening the doors, then a straight nipple. 8-9" unless you
have
> > the 10" laying around, longer isn't necessarily better.
>
> And thanks again for the advice. As mentioned above, that was pretty
> much the problem.
> >
> > Most importantly, only change one thing at a time, if you change several
> > it's easy to lose track of or not even know about a change in
performance.
> > Keeping notes can be handy too.
>
> Ayup. And I'm still a New Englander, so I'm legally allowed to use that
> word. I'm a firm believer in changing one thing at a time. Time spent
> here saves lots more just from the knowledge alone.
> >
>
> Well, now I'm on to ITC-100 coating and putting the finishing touches.
> If I don't get distracted with the 1/2 dozen other projects running
> around my brain, I should have this beast up and running full-time by
> the end of the week.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Marc
>
>
> --
> Marc Godbout
> http://www.ironringforge.com
>
> New England Blacksmiths Membership Director
> http://www.newenglandblacksmiths.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  [email protected]
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>