[TheForge] Quenching mild steel - Hochewa ?
[email protected]
[email protected]
Wed Sep 3 19:18:01 2003
To All,
Do y'all know that I have a sister named Pandora?
You can form martensite with 1010 steel. There is not a high percentage of
it in the work and it isn't very hard.
Martensite or super-cooled austenite can only form if you clear the pearlite
nose on the TTT curve. It is just the physics of the system.
The pearlite nose is at about 1200*F, more or less. The more effective the
quench is between the austentizing temperature and 1200*F the better the
chances are that you will clear it.
Alloys tend to push the curve to the right. More alloy, more time, slower
quench, deeper the hardening.
Carbon has the single most potent effect on the hardness of martensite and
the effect levels out about 0.6% carbon. After that it adds more to wear
resistance than hardness.
There are no reports in any journals to which I have access that describes a
new phase that is the result of using "super-quench".
The maximum allowable carbon in A-36 is about 0.35%. Also 1.25% or so of
manganese is allowed and manganese is a potent hardenability agent. It is no
small wonder that A-36 can be hardened if it is austenitized and quenched
properly (or improperly). 4140 is pretty hard when fully hardened. What differnce
does 0.05% carbon make?
For plain carbon steels, A-36 included, it is ok to cool them any which way
you please provided that you realize that you may have just hardened it enough
that a blow from a hammer could crack it or that it may be a little hard on
drill bits. If you "quench" the work, take the time to reheat it before any
other operations.
For plain carbon steels, black is ok to be quenched in clean, fresh water
without much happening. For any tool steel that does not have a W in front of a
number, water may not be a good choice.
Regards,
Hochewa
In a message dated 9/3/2003 12:31:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[email protected] writes:
This is one for the "Rt. Rev. Hochewa of the Church of Orthodox Metallurgy"
"There is nothing SUPER or magic about "super quench" it is just a fast
quench made to be similar to quenching in a solution of NaOH without the
high risk to person of the caustic." I for one, wish Rob had called it
something besides "super". I am not saying it isn't a good quench media --
just that there is no magic -- it is just fast, like NaOH but much safer.
By the way are you asking about 1018 or A36 hot rolled?
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