[TheForge] pipe fitting & gantry design/fab suggestions

Thu Nov 6 19:46:00 2003

        Kevin,  when you get to firing up a torch on this project - you can
think like your cutting a  45 degree bevel that your going to fill with weld
when you cut on your lines.........this bottom of the cut point is very easy
to grind away to fit the pipe better.  The thin lip is enough to support the
root pass as well - so if you win, your good to go with this bevel
cut.......and if you miss.....the sharp edge is easy to take away with the
grinder to get it closer and make your root pass high for a gantry
application it will work fine - it's a frame not a 5" water main that will
be under pressure and shock load.  Use 6010 for the root pass and tack in
four places with a slight bit of a gap if you can.  Then run the four
quadrants in the root, then do the covers.  You'll want to do covers for
holding weight on a spread leg situation.  Cover passes are usually done in
7018.
        Cut the angles first, then do the cuts for the caster pads after as
they will be easier and more predictable for getting exact leg length.
Leave one of the caster pads or casters themselves tacked on one
leg.....then you assemble the frame and let that tacked fourth pad/caster
take up the fit to the floor with welding and
shiming if necessary.  Where your doing an adjustable height tower you
should be all set with frame tolerances floating to fit the floor, but this
is an easy item to make a last adjustment when dealing with four
legs.

Another small design add on is the sketch you sent to me had a beam flange
welded to a flat end of a pipe.  I'd add a gusset puting the shear of the
legs trying to spread in or out to stop tearing/cracking of the upper beam
flange you may not see coming.  the gusset could be just 4" legs with what
ever hypotenuse that comes to, but it puts the shear from the pipe into the
lower flange just below the web where it is the strongest.  Flexing at the
sides of those flanges to the end of  the pipe will start cracks as you
waltz this thing around the shop with weight on it if you don't add gussets.

..........and I didn't learn any of this on TV   :-)

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Donahoe" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 3:51 PM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] pipe fitting

>
> This is great, I'm getting about 4-5 great ideas. I'm going to lay them
out
> and try the bunch and give a full report.  Had an engineering prof. from
the
> gun club call the other day to say he'd turned it over to a student that
was
> going to do it on the computer.  He'd started on it as an algebraic
> equation!  His point is the change from the 5" ID to the 5.5" OD will fit
> different and need to be accounted for.  I mentioned that my torch cutting
> skills were going to require a fair bit of customization with the grinder
> anyway, ha!
>
> Thanks much to everyone that responded.  I'm looking forward to applying
the
> ideas.  Kevin
>
> >  -----Original Message-----
> >  From: [email protected]
> >  [mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of R.C.Mundt
> >  Sent: Thursday, 06 November, 2003 9:32 AM
> >  To: [email protected]
> >  Subject: [TheForge] pipe fitting
> >
> >
> >  Heres what I came up w/ for a 30 degree branch on 5" pipe
> >  Divide the c ircumfrence ot the pipe into 4 equal parts,
> >  numbered like this.
> >
> >                                      1
> >
> >                          4                      2
> >
> >                                       3
> >
> >  At 1 make a mark 3/4" from the end of the pipe w/ a wraparound
> >  connect this point w/ points 4 and 2 on the end of the pipe,draw
> >  the cut line along the wraparound.
> >  At 3 make a mark 10 3/4" from the end,using a wraparound connect
> >  this point w/ points4and 2 on the end and draw the second cut line.
> >
> >  Here's the process, draw a full size picture of the branch and
> >  header, the cut line is from the points where the outside of the
> >  pipe meet to the point where the center lines meet.  transfer
> >  the measurements from the picture to the pipe and using a
> >  wraparound mark the cut lines.
> >
> >  The book I have is THE PIPE FITTERS AND PIPE WELDERS HANDBOOK by
> >  Thomas W. Frankland.
> >  Randy Mundt
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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