[TheForge] Re: Castable Refractory

Sat May 17 08:54:00 2003

Hi Ed,

I think you are correct_________I am not the least bit mamby pamby with my
forge.   It is possible that my lining is less than an inch thick___not sure
what sort of void one gets when a 10" sono tune goes into a 12" well casing.
When I first turn on my forge I let it blast, sometimes it is fired up when
well below freezing.  I have had zero cracking in the lining, I poured with no
reinforcing, I poured as a liquid.  I will readily admit that besides myself
the forge is the one other tool in my shop that is steadily abused,
unfortunately it stands up to the abuse batter than my body.  I never worried
much about the consequences with my forge,  it was just so damn easy to build I
knew I could easily build another when needed.  I do believe that proper curing
is essential with any option of building with a castable refractory.

Roger

Ed F wrote:

> Hi Roger,
>
> Back when you were helping me with advice on my forge, I think you mentioned
> that you use high heat at first to get going.  I've been gun shy about
> thermally shocking the liner (scared by the refractory tech.), so I start on
> low heat and build up.  That's what takes longer in my case (plus a little
> thicker liner maybe).  Sounds like I don't need to worry though...
>
> Thanks again for the help, by the way,
>
> Ed
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Olsen" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, May 16, 2003 9:11 AM
> Subject: [TheForge] Re: Castable Refractory
>
> > Hello Norm,
> ...
>
> > A castable refractory is not as immediate of heat as Kaowool but once it
> > heats up it seems more efficient somehow, possible the whole heat sink
> > concept ot something.  I usually let it heat for about 4 or 5 minutes
> before
> > putting any steel in, it is probably fully heated and totally efficient in
> > about 10 to 15 minutes.  I have heard some folks say it takes longer than
> > this_______maybe they poured 1&1/2 thick walls or even thicker.  1" has
> > proved itself for me with no doubts what so ever.
> >
> > Roger Olsen
> >
> > on the East slope of the North Cascades
> > _____________________________________
> >
> > [email protected] wrote:
> >
> > > I know this has been discussed before on theforge but I didn't pay
> > > enough attention.  I have an atmospheric forge that works well and is
> > > lined with 2" of kaowool and then covered with ITC 100.
> > >
> > > Now I want to make a forge that is lined with Mizzou castable
> > > refractory 3000 degree.Just got the refractory today (55 lbs for
> > > $27.50)  but no info with it or on the bag as far as specifications or
> > > applications are concerned.  I assume I just mix water with it and not
> > > make it too soupy--I'll just wait plenty long for it to set up.  What
> I'm
> > > wondering is:
> > >
> > > Does it help to put a short metal rods, screws, or whatever through
> > > the sides of the forge to help hold the lining in place once dry?
> > > What's the best thing to use?
> > >
> > > What's the best way to make a removable form to fit the inside of the
> > > forge to shape the inside opening?
> > >
> > > What are the disadvantages and advantages of using castable
> > > refractory as opposed to kaowool or durablanket type insulation?
> > >
> > > Does Mizzou type material make a good floor for  a forge?
> > >
> > > I plan to make the forge out of about a 10" or 12" pipe with about a
> > > .09 wall and form a flat place in the pipe for the bottom of the forge.
> > >
> > > Been thinking about making the thickness of the insulation
> > > somewhere between 1.5 and 2 inches.  Will this be adequate?
> > >
> > > Any suggestions or tips anyone has will be truly appreciated.
> > > Thanks in advance for your help.
> > >
> > > Norm Larson
> > >
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