[TheForge] Re: Castable Refractory

Fri May 16 10:13:01 2003

Hello Norm,

I made my forge with Mizzou and like it very very very much.  Worked out of
a forge lined with Kaowool coated with ITC 100 for years, don't know why I
did not make the switch sooner.

My forge is made out of a 12" diameter well casing the length of two fire
bricks.  I scrounged a piece of 10" sona tube, (what they pour footings for
porch posts etc. with)  it is heavy cardboard designed to hold wet soppy
concrete until it has set so works well.  A 10" sona tube gave me a 1" wall
of Mizzou in my 12" well casing.  I first set my well casing on end on a
piece of flat cardboard, I had cut a hole into my pipe for my air & gas
supply and blocked this out thru the sona tube and thru the piece of well
casing with anything that fits.   While pouring the mizzou i held the sona
tube in alignment by having some pieces of 1" sq. wood longer than the forge
and sona tube, once poured I pulled these sticks out and it all held.  I
also cut my sona tube a few inches longer than the well casing,  just made
it easier to pour the mizzou in.  I did not put any metal studs on the side
of pipe or reinforce in any way.  I mixed the mizzou about the consistency
of a thick thick milk shake, almost yogurt consistency.

After I was done pouring, using a settling rod as I did,  I put a light bulb
inside of the void, draped a piece of tin foil over the opening and forgot
about it for a few days.  I then ripped out what sona tube wanted to come
and took a propane torch to remove the rest.  I set it in place on my forge
table, lined up the intake etc.  and did the floor________the floor two
pieces of 1" thick fire brick mortared in with a bit more Mizzou.

I feel there is no comparison, I would never go back to Kaowool.  I am a
full-time smith,  My forge often runs for 10 hours at a time day after day.
It was made about 4 years ago and the interior still looks great,  God knows
how often I would have replaced Kaowool by now and how much very bad
particles I would have breathed after jabbing the sides and seeing little
white pieces drift in the air.

A castable refractory is not as immediate of heat as Kaowool but once it
heats up it seems more efficient somehow, possible the whole heat sink
concept ot something.  I usually let it heat for about 4 or 5 minutes before
putting any steel in, it is probably fully heated and totally efficient in
about 10 to 15 minutes.  I have heard some folks say it takes longer than
this_______maybe they poured 1&1/2 thick walls or even thicker.  1" has
proved itself for me with no doubts what so ever.

Roger Olsen

on the East slope of the North Cascades
_____________________________________

[email protected] wrote:

> I know this has been discussed before on theforge but I didn't pay
> enough attention.  I have an atmospheric forge that works well and is
> lined with 2" of kaowool and then covered with ITC 100.
>
> Now I want to make a forge that is lined with Mizzou castable
> refractory 3000 degree.Just got the refractory today (55 lbs for
> $27.50)  but no info with it or on the bag as far as specifications or
> applications are concerned.  I assume I just mix water with it and not
> make it too soupy--I'll just wait plenty long for it to set up.  What I'm
> wondering is:
>
> Does it help to put a short metal rods, screws, or whatever through
> the sides of the forge to help hold the lining in place once dry?
> What's the best thing to use?
>
> What's the best way to make a removable form to fit the inside of the
> forge to shape the inside opening?
>
> What are the disadvantages and advantages of using castable
> refractory as opposed to kaowool or durablanket type insulation?
>
> Does Mizzou type material make a good floor for  a forge?
>
> I plan to make the forge out of about a 10" or 12" pipe with about a
> .09 wall and form a flat place in the pipe for the bottom of the forge.
>
> Been thinking about making the thickness of the insulation
> somewhere between 1.5 and 2 inches.  Will this be adequate?
>
> Any suggestions or tips anyone has will be truly appreciated.
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Norm Larson
>
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