[TheForge] Re: A&O

Fri May 9 09:27:00 2003

Mike,

While looking around the BABA site I ran across an ad for a A&O hammer. You might get some info from the seller on details of your hammer.

http://www.baba.org.uk/text/newsintro.htm

2) ALLDAYS & ONIONS 2 CWT PNEUMATIC
       HAMMER: � 2,500.00 

       Both hammers are available to view under
       power / digital photos on request. 

       John Nicholson - B & S Massey Ltd.
       TEL: 0044 (0)161 351 7364
       FAX: 0044 (0)161 351 7365
       [23/11/02] 
______

>> Do you have a Manzel or other brand of automatic oiler on it or drip
>> oiler?
>
>No, Steve. This has a *manual* oiler for the tup.  I'm not quite clear
>yet on just where the oil goes in.  I'll look into that the next sunny
>day.  But the oiler is a small cast iron tank that bolts to the back
>of the compressor and has a brass manual plunger.  It was badly bent
>when I got it, I broke it trying to straighten it and had no end of
>trouble trying to get it glued together again, straight and uniform
>enough in diameter (without  a lathe) to work.  But you just grab
>the brass T-handle and go squitch-squitch.  Oil flows up a brass tube
>to somewhere on top of the hammer.  Most of the tube is missing and
>there may have been a tee in it to feed oil to two places.
>
>I don't know what a Manzel oiler is.  Should I have one of those?
>Would that be like, say, the one shown here?
>
>   http://www.lubriquip.com/pdf/51025.pfd     (800k PDF file)
>
>I *did* think that I should rig up somthing better than the manual
>oiler, though.  Details, details. :-)
>
>
>> The Nazel's con-rod has a similar cup attached to the shaft that
>> runs down to the crank pin. Being a passive system, I usually prime it
>> first by removing the cover plate and force feed it a few squirts.
>
>Sounds like a good idea.  I'm thinking of some kind of simple pump
>operated by a little weighted lever and a flexible plastic tube to a
>reservoir.  They didn't have reliably oil-proof plastic tubing when
>this was made.
>
>> The rear crank bushing (bearing) is also drip.
>
>The A&O crank bushings (bearings?  I dunno yet what's in there.) are
>lubed from two cast iron tanks inside the hammer body and connected by
>a ca. 1/2" dia. metal tube to keep their levels equal.  The filler is
>external so if there's oil standing in the filler, it's full in the
>tanks.  One side had a nifty oil slinger hanging loosely on the shaft,
>inside the tank: A brass ring ca. 5/8" wide by 3/16" thick, hinged
>with a tiny pin on one side and closed with a dovetail on the other
>and just springy enough that you can pop the dovetail open to get the
>thing off.  Presumably the other one is just missing.
>
>> Everything else; ram cylinder, compressor piston and main bushing
>> are all pressure oiled from the Manzel, parts of which are still
>> available new. The wrist pin is the only thing that relies on
>> lubrication by osmosis.
>
>I'm not completely clear on how the oil gets distributed yet,
>especially for the ca. 24" dia. compressor piston.  According to the
>blueprints I got from Alldays Peacock, later models had a splash pan
>under the crank but this one doesn't.  (It also lacks a compression
>release for ease of starting that was present on later models.)
>
>> The wrist pin is the only thing that relies on lubrication by
>> osmosis.
>
>Haven't got that far yet.  It's all dark and greasy and scary up in
>there. :-)
>
>> One of the latest projects was getting the ram line-bored which taxed
>> heavily the mill assigned for the job....Overall, they did a fine job
>> and it brought back an amazing amount of performance.
>
>Did you have to um, er, just toss the Nazel into your pickup and run
>it down to the shop?  Of did they come with a portable rig?
>Thirty-some years ago when I was a sports car mechanic, people already
>spoke of the good old day when you could have the machinist come to
>your shop and bore a block on site.  I didn't know you could get that
>done any more.  I surely hope I don't have to do that.  It occurs to
>me that it would be easier to have the tup turned smooth, polished and
>hardchromed to fit of the bore isn't out of round.
>
>> Guide plates; bronze is probably fine since you already have
>> it. Mine are worn C.I. but in manageable shape. I looked into making
>> new ones of cast iron which rough sizes can be bought from MSC or
>> grainger. On a 3b they are 4X12" which makes it convienent. The real
>> cost would have been machining the dovetail into the guides to hold
>> the leather rings. I'm assuming the A&O has a similar set-up.
>
>Um, kinda lost me there so perhaps it's not so similar.  The A&O tup
>has a flat on one side about 8" wide.  The flat is relieved in the
>center so that in effect it has two flat surfaces about 2" wide each
>(over ca. 3/4 of the length of the tup) that are machined smooth.  A
>heavy bar that is rectangular in cross section and wedge-shaped runs
>transversely through the hammer body in a hole that has a wedge shape
>cast into it.  This hole intersects the tup bore at right angles.
>When run through the hole, the bar presses against the flats on the
>tup and the surface where it does so has a gun metal plate ca. 10" x
>1-1/2" x 3/8" bolted on with 1/2" countersunk flathead screws.  This
>plate was worn down to the screw heads.  The wedge bar has a 1-1/4"
>threaded extension on each end so it can be pulled up firmly against
>the tup with a nut and then locked there with the nut on the other
>end.
>
>No dovetails anywhere, no leather rings.
>
>The guy who took the pictures of my new shop was here today and
>suggested that the missing metal door through which you access the
>crank, conrod etc. be replace with Plexiglas.  Hey!  I like that.
>Nice forged frame and hinges.  And better yet, how about a concealed
>ring of purple neon tubing inside the door so that the inside of the
>working hammer looks like the underside of an LA lowrider?
>
>Sorry.  I'm getting carried away here. :-)
>
>
>
>
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