[TheForge] Chasing and engraving

Mon Mar 31 13:58:16 2003

You can order 1010 or 1008 steel through Admiral Steel, and possibly your
local supplier.  Last time, my local supplier got me 1006 (woohoo!).  He
gave some kind of info sheet with it that verified the 1006 part.
I usually order 18 or 20g depending on the design.
-Kirsten
----- Original Message -----
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Chasing and engraving


> Modern Autos are using a high carbon steel for body panels.   This
> allows them to use a lighter gauge and still have reasonable strength.
>  An old technique for shrinking a stretched panel ( as all are in a
> wreck) was to heat quarter sized spots red hot, then quench them. This
> would draw the metal in.  Every modern manual warns against this now
> since the panels are supposedly carbon alloy.     The best steel for
> working is going to be AK steel, standing for Aluminum Killed or Kiln (,
> I have heard both). This is a special steel developed for deep drawing,
> and used by most custom auto and motorcycle fabricators.
>
> Of course if it doesn't have to be steel/iron  ( don't recall the
> original post specifying) then aluminum or even copper would be a lot
> easier.
>
>
>
> Larry and Pat Brown wrote:
>
> >
> > Auto sheet metal is soft stuff (look at the shapes it presses into),
> > don't inhale the paint as it burns off. If you don't want to buy tool
> > steel a coil spring can yield a lot of small chisels and plenty of
> > practice pieces to try tempering with (Older GM springs were said to
> > be 5160). I've had good luck using coil spring for tooling, just make
> > a few test pieces to try hardening and tempering before you spend a
> > lot of time making tools from it
> > Larry Brown
> >
> >
>
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