[TheForge] chinese ASOs

Fri Mar 28 14:46:00 2003

Basically anvils are such a large mass of metal they can't be heat treated
like say a blade, hammer head, etc. Typically the anvil would be taken from
the forge / furnace and partially quenched, letting the residual heat from
the body soak(?) back out and temper the face.

There were a couple "traditional" ways to quench/temper anvils that I know
of. Probably the most common was to suspend the hot anvil upside down in a
large pond, creek, etc. The other way I know of was to direct a measured
amount of water over a measured amount of time onto the face of the anvil.

From what I've been told the second method is how Sodorfors heat treated
their anvils. They had large water tanks with orifices sized for specific
weights of anvils. The tanks were filled to a mark for a given anvil weight
and the valve opened. When the tank ran dry the anvil was quenched and
tempered.

Frosty
------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Tull" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs

> Jerry,
>
> I don't understand the quench/ temper part.??
>
>
> dan tull
> georgia
> abba, afc, S.C. psba, obg,sofa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Frost" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 1:48 PM
> Subject: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
>
>
> > Something I've contemplated and will try one of these days is putting a
> > steel face on a cast iron chinese junk anvil.
> >
> > It shouldn't be too hard to do:
> >
> > Grind the existing face smooth and make a matching steel plate.
> >
> > Build a heavy steel stand to hold the anvil upside down a foot or so off
> the
> > ground.
> >
> > Put the steel plate on the stand, flux it, lay either brazing rod or a
> thin
> > sheet of brass on it, flux it and lay the anvil upside down on it.
> >
> > True it all up and build a big fire under and around it.
> >
> > Watch closely when it starts hitting bright red. When you see brass
> running
> > out of the joint rake the fire away and extinguish.
> >
> > After the braze is cool enough to hold, flip the anvil over and start
the
> > quench/temper.
> >
> > It's a thought anyway. <grin>
> >
> > Frosty
> > ------------------------
> > If it ain't forged
> > it ain't real.
> > Wrought iron is.
> > The FrostWorks
> >
> > Meadow Lakes, AK.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Phlip" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 9:04 AM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Power hammer questions
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Ene bichizh ogsen baina shuu...
> > >
> > > > The 55 LB H.F. ASOs that I have seen are porous and they do not have
> the
> > > > necessary tool steel plate that a good cast anvil has.
> > > > Darrell
> > >
> > > A friend of mine just dropped off a 55 lb HF cast steel, and it looks
> OK.
> > > I'll likely hafta work on the horn to round it more- it's pretty flat-
> but
> > > it looks like it will be ideal for my purposes, which is to basicly
have
> > > small, light anvils I can take with me to SCA events, and let them
have
> > > something to pound on.
> > >
> > > Think I'll likely buy a couple.
> > >
> > > Phlip
> > >
> > >  If it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, it is probably not a
> > > cat.
> > >
> > > Never a horse that cain't be rode,
> > > And never a rider who cain't be throwed....
> > >
> > >
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> > >
> > >
> >
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>
>
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