[TheForge] All too true -Yak

Thu Jun 26 01:34:01 2003

Every man who sees himself as the household handyman will relate to
Davey's e-mail, below. The women in our lives can relate because it was
they who drove us to the emergency room for tetanus shots and stitches.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the
object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard
cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes
containing seats and motorcycle jackets.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling
mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear
wheel.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal
your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available,
they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your
hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
a hub you're trying to get the bearing race out of.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and
hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say,
"Ouc...."

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering your car to the ground after you
have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle
firmly under the front fender.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering the fender upward off a
hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
floor jack.

SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
spreading mayonnaise.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and
is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease build-up.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
strength of ground straps and fuel lines you may have forgotten to
disconnect.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid
from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that
your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop
light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is
not otherwise found under race cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's
main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as a
25 mm chain gun. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as
the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Detroit and rounds them off.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.

-Alix Peshette
Voodoo Moon Forge

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of terry l. ridder
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 8:53 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: yurt

hello;

reply intermixed below.

On Mon, 23 Jun 2003 [email protected] wrote:

ike>
ike> A friend of mine has one so I can helpsome.
ike>
ike>
ike> Is the yurt going to be up all the time or part of time?
ike>

figure a year or two.

ike>
ike> As for the side walls tie that slats together with a strong cord.
ike>

there is a form of nylon tie-wrap which does not form the typical loop.
it is straight with a button on one end and a shaft which looks like
small cones stacked on top of one another. the locking part slides for
the stack of small cones and locks in place. there are several different
types of locking parts available. they have a drawback of that they do
age and become brittle.

ike>
ike> Gives flexability and if you have to replace a slat just untie the
cord.
ike> use dowel rods to connect the rafters with the center ring.
ike>

the other option would be to create slots in the compression ring for
the rafters to slide into. still need someway to keep the rafters from
pulling out of the compression ring if a strong wind would begin to lift
the compression ring.

ike>
ike> also use tie to tie the rafters to the walls.
ike>

the rafters need to be 2x6. that is what the county building person is
telling me. a 2x6 rafter needs something stronger to hold it.

ike>
ike> Stay away from metal because if a strong wind or snow gets on it
ike> it will flex  more and still not break stuff. use ties on everything.
ike>

<snip>

ike>
ike> parachute cord works well for the ties. He used 1x2 with extra 1x2 at
the ring.
ike> he used thin slats for the walls he also made a dome of slats for his
smoke
ike> hole opening on the center ring. he had slots for the dome to fit in.
It all
ike> folded up and went in his regular size van. He has been using it for
over 10 years
ike> and it is still in good shape. I think that it is 16 foot diameter.
ike>

the wall slats are basically 1x2s. the rafters are 2x6. on the 24 foot
yurt the compression ring is 5 feet in diameter. on the 12 foot yurt the
compression ring is 3 feet in diameter. the compression rings will be
made of 2x4s laminated together with glue and bolts.

not sure about the dome/skylight yet. may try to get a factory second
from pacific yurts or nesting bird yurts.

ike>
ike> Hope this helps.
ike>
ike> Later Ike
ike>

--
Terry L. Ridder ><>
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