[TheForge] multiple questions concerning a possible project

Mon Jun 23 13:39:01 2003

Hey Terry,
Although I also like the concept of yurts, (my forge is a monster building
using yurt design concepts) I think I'd be somewhat leery of living in one
with my family: considering the violent weather we frequently have rolling
thru Mississippi.
You might want to consider some of the portable collapsible fiberglass
shelters now available, They are much stronger. longer lasting and assemble
faster than most yurts.
You might want to check out these sites:
 http://newageshelters.com/uses.html
http://www.pamgltd.com/shelters/features%5B1%5D.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "terry l. ridder" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 11:21 PM
Subject: [TheForge] multiple questions concerning a possible project


> hello;
>
> i am mulling over the idea of building a yurt from scratch. ( yes, i know
> you can buy them from several manufacturerers. ) there are several parts
> of the design that would require either brass or stainless steel
> fittings. this is were the questions arise.
>
> brass grommets verses stainless steel grommets.
> what are the pros and cons of using either type of grommet?
>
> brass verses stainless steel window fastners.
> these may be difficult to visualize but here goes.
> a grommet with an oval-shaped hole through which and oval-shaped stud
> passes. the oval-shaped stud turns 90 degrees to lock the grommet in
> place.
>
> rafter to compression ring connectors.
> these are basically pins and sockets. the pins are in the end of the
> rafters and the sockets are in the compression ring.
> brass verses stainless pros and cons.
>
>
> rafter to stainless steel tension cable.
> each rafter is notched so it slides over the cable.
> there needs to be someway to protect the rafter from splitting it's
> length from the all the combined forces of the cable and the compression
> ring. also at the same time lock the cable into the notch.
>
> the rivets/bolts/etc which hold the walls together.
> the walls are basically large baby gates in the way they fold up and
> expand. i have better much ruled out rivets since if a slat breaks i do
> not want to have to be drilling out several rivets.
>
>  /   /   /   /   /   /   /   /   /   /   /   /
> / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ /
>    x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x
> \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \
>  x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x
> / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \
>    x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x
> \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \
>  x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x   x
> / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \
>
> i have idea for a connector type/style but sofar i have been unable to
> find it one the internet.
> here is my idea for a connector.
> a round washer with a barrel attached. the barrel is thread 3/4 of the
> length. the other 1/4 of the length is an hex socket for an allen
> wrench. the barrel length is the thickness of the wall slat. when
> assembled the two barrel halves would meet. this allows the slats to
> move yet be held in place. also allows for easy replacement of broken
> slats. no protruding bolt/screw heads to wear on the canvas wall and no
> threads and nuts protruding into the yurt. depending on the size of the
> yurt these could be hundreds if not a couple thousand of the connectors.
> also depends on the number of slats in the wall and slat spacing.
> obviously the more slats the more connectors required. assuming that
> each slat is 8 feet long there is a connector hole every 12 to 16 inches
> starting 4 inches from one end. (8 foot long slats give roughly a 6 foot
> wall height.) the slats are made from wood. they are sort of like 1x2.
> think 2x4 ripped into 4 pieces.
>
> well there are more design questions but that is enough for now.
>
> --
> Terry L. Ridder ><>
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