[TheForge] Re: Advice? Air hammer die and anvil fit-up

Ralph Sproul [email protected]
Tue Jul 15 08:34:00 2003


That might work for sure Pete, but the copper does it in a few more hits
over time.  Once it reaches full surface contact the movement is minimal.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Advice? Air hammer die and anvil fit-up


> How bout  using the hammer to seat the die on a hot shim that would  be
> forced into the depression beneath the die?   PF
>
> Ralph Sproul wrote:
>
> >A steel shim would work best for Bob's idea of a totally flat surface
done
> >with a carbid bit.   The copper shim would work for a surface that is
> >inconsistent.
> >
> >Ralph
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mike Spencer" <[email protected]>
> >To: <[email protected]>
> >Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 3:02 AM
> >Subject: [TheForge] Re: Advice? Air hammer die and anvil fit-up
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>ralph> Mike, If you do have it to 1/32 of flat and perpendicular with
> >>ralph> the tup - why not put a piece of 1/8 to 3/16 copper under it to
> >>ralph> let it pound itself into a flat plane.
> >>
> >>I don't know why not.  Would that hold up fair to middling, do you
think?
> >>Would a mild steel shim be better?  Worse?
> >>
> >>ralph> Copper plate under the die seems like the fastest way to correct
it
> >>ralph> (especially if your just trying to get it running to see if it
will
> >>ralph> work for you...
> >>
> >>That's the idea.
> >>
> >>bob> If the upper area is flat, you can use a router with a carbide bit
to
> >>bob> machine the lower area.
> >>
> >>Yow!  Good idea -- for next time.  I've already leveled the floor of
> >>the dovetail with a cup stone.  Had to take off a lot of metal and
> >>that's why the top surface of the anvil is now too high.
> >>
> >>charles> Someone suggested a router with carbide bit , but this would
> >>charles> lower the dovetail floor, not raise it.
> >>
> >>Exactly. (That was Bob Bergman.)
> >>
> >>charles> ...maybe the 16 guage sheet metal screwed down with
> >>charles> countersunk screws would work best.
> >>
> >>So, has anyone seen dies shimmed this way, either with copper or m/s?
> >>
> >>charles> ...I would expect that what you want is all of the force of
> >>charles> the hammer transmitted to the floor of the dovetail slot, not
> >>charles> the cheeks.
> >>
> >>That's right.  But the working surface of the die extends out over the
> >>cheeks.  If the cheeks of the die stand above the anvil surface, blows
> >>struck such that all the impact is over the cheek will tend to tip
> >>the die, creating hugely exagerated upward force on the opposite side
> >>of the anvil dovetail.
> >>
> >>I may be worrying about this more than I need to but the suggestions
> >>and comments are helping my thinking about it.  I took the day off
> >>from working on the hammer to see what you guys had to say and to
> >>think about it.
> >>
> >>Instead, I worked on a "comeback" job.  Years ago I made a pretty nice
> >>firetool set and stand, wood rack with roses, shelf brackets with
> >>padulas [1] and other sundries.  Their house burned down and pretty
> >>much all they recovered from the front 2/3 of the house was my iron
> >>stuff.  Badly rusted and a bit warped but everything is cleaning up
> >>pretty well.  Have to make three replacement parts.
> >>
> >>- Mike
> >>
> >>[1] His wife is a hooker.  Er, rug hooker, that is.  Hookers call
> >>generic flowers of no particularly identifiable type "padulas".  Not
> >>in my dictionary but I think it's in the OED.
> >>
> >>--
> >>Michael Spencer                  Nova Scotia, Canada
> >>
> >>[email protected]
> >>http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/
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> >>
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