[TheForge] Treadle Hammer

Wed Jul 9 14:09:00 2003

Light for a treadle hammer, but not too bad for a power hammer. This one is 
set up to be convertible, by adding the motor, two pulleys and a drive 
wheel.  I just can't use a power hammer where I am. As it is, it is setting 
on a 1 inch rubber pad which has cut the noise enormously.

At 05:40 PM 7/8/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Michael,
>
>I like it. Looks a lot simpler to build than others. 30lbs seems a bit on 
>the light side. As far as tooling I would just suggest keeping them 
>short...4" or so and try to make all your tools the same length. You may 
>want to drill a series of holes in those three linkage rods so you can 
>adjust the treadle height to accomodate different size tools and material. 
>You could just lock your ram with one of your slide bolts and adjust 
>linkage rods longer or shorter as needed. Nice paint job!
>
>Watch your fingers!
>
>Bob Schade
>______
>
> >I just posted a couple of in process pictures of the treadle hammer I'm
> >building on the photo site under Power Hammers.
> >No, not a mistake, it's built to be motorized later when I move.  ( I do my
> >work on the patio of my apartment, don't think the neighbors would
> >appreciate the power hammer!)
> >Kind of a cross between Clay Spencer's original hammer, and the Rusty power
> >hammer from http://www.appaltree.net/aba/
> >I started with 75 pounds of steel for the anvil, welded to a 6 inch square
> >heavy wall column. And there it sat for several years, getting used
> >occasionally as an extra anvil, until I went to the CBA  Spring Conference
> >and got to see what Mike Boone could do with a treadle hammer for carving
> >and repousee. I looked at all the hammers I could find at the conference,
> >and online, and decided I wanted a vertical hammer. The grasshopper looked
> >nice, but complicated, Clay's skate wheels just didn't appeal, so I built
> >it like a machine slide. Half a turn on any of the slide bolts lets me lock
> >the30 pound hammer head in place, or let it run free. The extra link at the
> >top of the hammer allows the lift arm to pivot while the hammer head goes
> >up and down.
> >The three rod sliding linkage from the treadle can be clamped at any
> >length.  Once I establish proper heights for some of the tooling I'm using,
> >I'll drill through from the side for a locking pin.
> >
> >I got to use it this weekend. Made up some hammer tooling, and forged out
> >some oak leaves,  then made a few acorns with the top and bottom dies I
> >made recently.  Looks like I need to relieve the edges a bit more,
> >though.  Also laid out a tooling plate so I can use hardy tools on it, and
> >looks like smithing will be a lot more fun.  (My striker is only 2 years
> >old now, and not too much help!)
> >  So, any suggestions for hammer tooling?  I already made a fuller/flatter
> >in a "D" shape with one edge cut off  to hammer on and the other edge left
> >sharper to use to isolate an area if a bar.
> >
> >Michael D. Horgan , [email protected]
> >http://members.aol.com/lughaid/
> >posting from
> >  A BRAZEN FORGERY
> >Blacksmithing and Metalwork
> >Claremont, Ca.
> >
> >
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> >theforge mail list group photo site is
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> >Login:  [email protected]
> >password:  anvil
> >___________
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>theforge mail list group photo site is
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>password:  anvil
>___________

Michael D. Horgan , [email protected]
http://members.aol.com/lughaid/
posting from
  A BRAZEN FORGERY
Blacksmithing and Metalwork
Claremont, Ca.