[TheForge] Modified Side Arm Burners

Tue Jan 21 09:39:06 2003

This is how I do them. It's a jet ejector type inducer but we can call it
something cool like T-bone burner or whatever. <grin>

1" x 9" black pipe, (burner tube) 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" "T", 1 1/4" x 1"
bushing, 2" all thd. lamp rod, lock nut for same, 1/8" fpt x compresson
fitting (brass) and a 0.040 Miller mig tip.

Using care, simply drill the "T" square and centered, opposite the burner
tube leg and tap 1/8 fpt. The brass fitting is drilled and tapped 1/4"-28,
this screws onto the lamp rod and the mig tip is screwed into the fitting.
Install the lamp rod into the "T" with lock nut (external), attach the
propane with teflon tape and adjust for proper depth. My propane hose
fitting fits the lamp rod just fine with a little teflon tape for a good
seal.

To get a visual of the thing, if you point the burner tube straight down
it's a short armed "T" with the end of the lamp rod and propane hose
sticking up out of the top.

Takes me maybe 15 minutes to put one together and as built, burns slightly
rich at any psig my 5-50 psi  gage will read.  I'd eliminate the bushing but
it's really hard to find a  1 1/4" "T" with a 1" in the tap position around
here.

A point about propane and turbulence. Propane and air do not mix well, it's
why propane conversions on oxy-acet torches do so poorly. A little
turbulence improves mixing and efficiency. Of course too much turbulence
inhibits induction and efficiency. A balancing act as usual. <grin> Poor air
propane mixing is the reason you can see BOTH scaling (oxidizing burn) and
pink/blue flame emerging from the forge door (carburizing burn) at the same
time.

I have this dialed in so I'm going to drill a brass cap for my next jet
instead of using a mig tip. The cap's flat end will do two things:

First, it'll allow me to move it farther back from the throat than the mig
tip allows.

Second, being flat, should induce a little more turbulence and (hopefully)
improve mixing.

I haven't been using flares on my burners but they produce plenty of heat
anyway, my little forge welds easily.

My next forge is going to be similar to Ralph Bear's. It'll have a lid on a
jack so I can adjust it's height and stackable sidewalls so I can adjust the
width / length. I have the pan rammed up and have rammed the flared nozzles
in the lid. The pan, lid and sidewalls will be fire clay and perlite but
faced inside the forge with high temp refractory as are the nozzles. I doubt
4,000f refractory nozzles will burn out any time soon. The lid has four
nozzle positions rammed in so I can keep a proper burner to volume ratio.

Frosty
------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Zoeller" <[email protected]>
To: "theforge" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 12:53 PM
Subject: [TheForge] Modified Side Arm Burners

>
>
>
>
>
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> To All,
>
> I have been following this thread about the side arm burner, I have heard
some interesting comments about the burner. I think that there have been
some useful suggestions or alternative ways to build them. I do not like the
idea of using a standard tee and a bushing, this cuts down on the air flow
and causes an erratic burn. I have not tried like Dragonwatch suggested and
grind down any shoulders on the inside, this could work.
>
> I would like to hear what size contact tip that you are using in your
sidearm burners?
>
> I also uploaded a pdf file with a drawing of the Modified Side Arm Burner
on my web site if you care to view it or download it.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/zoellerforge/sidearm.html
>
> &nbsp;
>
>
>
>
> Larry Zoeller
>
> [email protected]
>
> Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>
> &nbsp;
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