[TheForge] Finishing Swage Blocks

Daniel Crowther [email protected]
Tue Jan 14 16:40:01 2003


I have the Centaur Forge Swage Block "B".  I used a right-angle pneumatic=20
die grinder with 40grit "Metal Button" abrasive disks (they're similar to=20
the 3M Roloc system).  The "Button" locks onto a rubber backing and given=20
its small diameter (mine are 1" to 1-1/4") I was easily able to clean all=20
but the smallest shapes.

Now 40grit is still quite rough so I swapped to 80g then finished with=20
120g.  The largest shapes took about 45 minutes and the smallest ones were=
=20
a mere 10 minutes or so.  Even so, unless you *like* whitesmithing it can=20
be tedious so I took it a little at a time as the mood struck me or=20
whenever I needed a specific shape.  At this point 3/4 of the block is=20
complete. (Depressions only.  I saw no point in polishing the flat=
 surfaces).


Dan Crowther
http://www.oakandacorn.com
http://home.nycap.rr.com/clancrowther


At 04:01 PM 1/14/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Lotta talk recently on this subject.  I have a Green and Mengel block I=20
>need to finish.  I had previously tried flexible sanding disks, but found=
=20
>it rather tedious and didn't get very far.  I just picked up a couple flap=
=20
>wheels I'd intended to try on the angle grinder.
>
>What techniques have the rest of you used, and how effective were they?
>
>I was wondering whether acid etching would work.  Coat the block in=20
>asphaultum - which resists etching compound.  Then lightly sand the=20
>regions you want to finish, so that you cut through the asphaultum down to=
=20
>the HIGH points only.  Acid etch =AF should reduce the high points,=20
>selectively.  Then rinse off the acid, sand a little MORE asphaultum off,=
=20
>and re-etch.  Presumably this would take a few cycles.  When the area is=20
>smooth, recoat with asphaultum and leave it alone until the rest of the=20
>block is finished.  Finally wash off the asphaultum.  Note that I haven't=
=20
>tried this and am not advocating it.
>
>Bruce
>NJ
>
>
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