[TheForge] Finishing Swage Blocks
Daniel Crowther
[email protected]
Tue Jan 14 16:40:01 2003
I have the Centaur Forge Swage Block "B". I used a right-angle pneumatic=20
die grinder with 40grit "Metal Button" abrasive disks (they're similar to=20
the 3M Roloc system). The "Button" locks onto a rubber backing and given=20
its small diameter (mine are 1" to 1-1/4") I was easily able to clean all=20
but the smallest shapes.
Now 40grit is still quite rough so I swapped to 80g then finished with=20
120g. The largest shapes took about 45 minutes and the smallest ones were=
=20
a mere 10 minutes or so. Even so, unless you *like* whitesmithing it can=20
be tedious so I took it a little at a time as the mood struck me or=20
whenever I needed a specific shape. At this point 3/4 of the block is=20
complete. (Depressions only. I saw no point in polishing the flat=
surfaces).
Dan Crowther
http://www.oakandacorn.com
http://home.nycap.rr.com/clancrowther
At 04:01 PM 1/14/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Lotta talk recently on this subject. I have a Green and Mengel block I=20
>need to finish. I had previously tried flexible sanding disks, but found=
=20
>it rather tedious and didn't get very far. I just picked up a couple flap=
=20
>wheels I'd intended to try on the angle grinder.
>
>What techniques have the rest of you used, and how effective were they?
>
>I was wondering whether acid etching would work. Coat the block in=20
>asphaultum - which resists etching compound. Then lightly sand the=20
>regions you want to finish, so that you cut through the asphaultum down to=
=20
>the HIGH points only. Acid etch =AF should reduce the high points,=20
>selectively. Then rinse off the acid, sand a little MORE asphaultum off,=
=20
>and re-etch. Presumably this would take a few cycles. When the area is=20
>smooth, recoat with asphaultum and leave it alone until the rest of the=20
>block is finished. Finally wash off the asphaultum. Note that I haven't=
=20
>tried this and am not advocating it.
>
>Bruce
>NJ
>
>
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