[TheForge] brainstorming revisited

Fri Jan 10 10:21:00 2003

A few years back Woodcraft Supply sold a copy of an antique foot powered treadle
saw called the velosipede, which you sat at and peddaled like a bike. The saw
frame reciprocated like the new top end scroll saws, keeping tension on the
blade on both the up and down stroke (keeps you from breaking blades). I think
there is a German saw called a Wegners (?) that will cut metals.

"R.C.Mundt" wrote:

> On the woodwrights workshop a couple years ago on PBS Roy Underhill used a
> treadle powered scroll saw, might find a picture of one in one of his books.
> Long before my time my uncle and father built a scroll saw from an old
> sewing machine, don't know a thing about it just remember seeing it up in
> the rafters of my uncle's garage 40 + years ago.
> Randy Mundt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Freeman" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, January 10, 2003 6:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] brainstorming revisited
>
> Terry,
>
> Are you aware that treadle scroll saws for WOOD were actually manufactured
> and marketed?  They might be listed in that reprinted 1800's Sears & Robuck
> catalog.  There's one in the carpenter's shop at historic Allaire Village,
> NJ.
>
> That said, wouldn't an electric scroll saw equipped with a jewelry-saw
> blade, do nicely?  It would be like sawing with a jeweler's saw, but without
> the manual ups-and-downs.
>
> Bruce
> NJ
>
> >>> [email protected] 01/05/03 07:45PM >>>
> hello;
>
> i have been searching the internet and exchanging e-mails with several
> hobbyist jewelers. the idea of a treadle scroll saw has come up several
> times in the past. several ideas have been tried and the one which keeps
> coming up is modifing a treadle sewing machine for use as a treadle
> scroll saw. actual any variable speed sewing machine may work but the
> older the better. the newer computer controlled sewing machines are
> difficult to modify. a treadle sewing machine is preferred since when
> not in use it folds away.
>
> another approach that is far simpler yet does work. this approach uses
> two pulleys, natural fibre rope, 1/4" cold rolled round, lead weights
> and a wood or metal foot treadle. the type of jeweler saw used will
> dictate the available cutting depth.
>
> poor ascii picture:
>
>  pulley -> o-------o <- pulley
>            |       |
>    rope -> |       | <- rope
>            |       |
>            |  /----- <- jeweler saw frame
>            |  |    x
>            |  |    x <- jeweler saw blade
>            |  |    x
>     ============================ <- table
>            |  |    x
>            |  |    x
>            |  \-----
>            |     | |
>           www    | |
>           www    | | <- jeweler saw handle
>           www    | |
>  lead ->  www    \ /
>  weights  www     |
>           www     |
>           www     | <- 1/4 cold rolled steel rod
>                   |
>                   |
>                   |
>  eye formed in -> O=========== <- foot treadle (wood or metal)
>  1/4" rod with 1/4" rod      O <- 1/8 pipe with 1/4" cold rolled steel
>  passing through it.              rod passing through it. held to foot
>                                   treadle by conduit clamps.
>
>  the jeweler saw frame passes through the table top via cut in slots.
>  a modification to the table top would be to have a removable circular
>  cut out that would only easy access to the jeweler saw.
>
>  pressing on the foot treadle pulls the saw down and the weights up.
>  release the foot treadle the weights pulls the saw up and the foot
>  treadle up. jeweler saw blade stays near to 90 degrees and speed is
>  controlled by the user's foot.
>
>  a variant of the above replaces the lead weights with a spring.
>
>  this approach has a small footprint. 16inches across and 20 inches
>  deep. frame is either pvc pipe, metal, or wood.
>
> --
> Terry L. Ridder ><>
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