[TheForge] claying a forge

Thu Dec 11 02:48:00 2003

Jerry: There's some stuff called Permalite ( ground up pearlite) that 
adds some air spaces  in a mix like that for insulation and works quite 
well.....But it is silicosis in a bag and must be used with a 
respirator. It's sold as a concrete additive for light-weight concrete...PF

Jerry Frost wrote:

>I use fireclay, sand and a little portland cement in a 4:1:0.25 ratio.
>
>Thouroughly mix the clay and cement dry then add damp sand.
>
>Mix thouroughly and test by squeezing a handfull hard, if it makes a clump
>that will break cleanly it has the correct moisture content.
>
>If it's crumbly add a little water, mix well and test again.
>
>If it clumps but bits stick to your hand it's too wet, add a little dry
>sand, mix and retest.
>
>Once it's "right" ram it into the pan by beating the snot out of it with a
>wooden mallet.
>
>Let it dry for a couple days, shining a light on it really helps in damp
>climates.
>
>Once good and dry cover it with about a 2-3" a layer of charcoal briquettes,
>light and cover it with a piece of tin to help hold the heat.
>
>Once burnt out and cool it's good to go.
>
>Frosty
>------------------------
>If it ain't forged
>it ain't real.
>Wrought iron is.
>The FrostWorks
>
>Meadow Lakes, AK.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ron" <[email protected]>
>To: "The forge" <[email protected]>
>Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 7:45 AM
>Subject: [TheForge] claying a forge
>
>
>  
>
>>Howdy folks, I know this has cropped up before but what are the recipes
>>for lining a cast iron portable forge. I know some think it is
>>unneccessary but I'll be lighting this puppy up in cold shop usually and
>>I don't want to crack the pan. Also I don't think I need to line the
>>firepot either. The forge is an old buffalo forge cast iron deal with
>>the side arm to hold the blower. Any advice appreciated.
>>Cheers
>>Ron Bakerian
>>
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