[TheForge] bar twisters

[theron]

I got to see Albert Paleys twister in action last year it is awsome !I did
an internship at Paley studios last year lots of nice tools!
I want one.
----- Original Message -----
From: "lama" <lama@huntbrothers.com>
To: <theforge@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] bar twisters


>
>
>
> > Ed- Dave's twister applies pressure thru the large spring which pushes
the
> > pipe clamp carriage away from the motor.
> > However, I am not at all sure that it is necessary at all to apply such
> > pressure.
>
> ......pushes or pulls, same result. I have found that if I am twisting a
> long piece,
> it will seriously sag unless some tension is applied to the piece. Also
when
> I
> reverse the twist, a kink tends to form at the point of reversal unless I
> apply tension.
>
> > I have the ferrari of storebought twisters- A Hebo, and it does
> superlative
> > twisting with no pulling action whatsoever.
>
> ...... I had no idea that there were "store-bought" twisters available. I
> built mine
> as a scaled down version of one of Albert Paley's home made twisters that
> uses giant 3-phase elevator motors as a power source. There is no 3-phase
> available within 5 miles of where I live. My machine is more of a
home-made
> Volkswagen dune buggy than a Ferrari.
>
> > In fact, when you think about
> > it, the piece should actually get shorter as it is twisted. My hebo has
> dies
> > that are just loose enough to allow the piece to contract as it is
> twisted.
> > Most material will not contract a noticeable amount unless you are
really
> > twisting it a lot.
>
> ......A single bar does not get shorter as it is twisted, in fact with a
> little
> tension to keep it from sagging, it will get longer than when it started.
A
> bundle
> of pieces, on the other hand, will get shorter when twisted.
>
> > The hebo has about a 5hp 3ph motor, with fiendish german gear reduction,
> so
> > the torque is extreme. It will twist 1 1/2" square cold as tight as you
> > want, and a big problem with hot twisting is overtwisting to the point
> where
> > the metal just comes apart, like playdoh.
>
> ......Mine uses a 3/4 hp, 220 volt motor with an assortment of found parts
&
> pieces, a transmission from an old riding lawn mower, a gear reducer from
a
> local boat lift, chain & sprocket from a very old mini-bike, a pipe vice,
a
> spring
> from a Murphy Bed, etc. The torque is also extreme but I know that it
would
> not
> twist 1-1/2" square, cold. Matter of fact I probably wouldn't use 1-1/2"
> square,
> twisted. I would hammer it to octagon to achieve more facets and twist it
> hot.
> The picture on that page http://magichammer.freeservers.com/page11.html is
> of
> a 1-1/2" octagon twisted bed post. I find it harder to spot heat the
1-1/2"
> stock
> than to twist it.
>
> > I was working on a piece of 1" square recently, with lots and lots of
> > reverse twists, and I would twist a section, then put it in the forge
and
> > get the next bit hot, cooling with water the parts I didnt want to
twist.
> I
> > over twisted it, at about the point when the twists were about 1/16"
> apart,
> > and the 1" square parted like tearing a hot chocolate chip cookie. If
the
> > twister was exerting a pulling force on the bar, this sort of hot
parting
> > would take place sooner.
>
> ...... I am pretty involved in being one with the metal when I am twisting
> it
> (especially when it is that big) and have not encountered the shearing
> problem
> that Ries describes here. I have on occasion put a piece of 1/2" square in
> the machine and let it run until it finally shears off at one end. It
makes
> a nice
> twisted piece with the ridge repeating about every 3/8" or so.
> dave m
>
> > ries
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  blacksmithblacksmith@hotmail.com
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>