[TheForge] Welding 5160

[Larry and Pat Brown]

I have used Eutectic 680 CGS for repairs such as this, but I am out of them 
and I have now started using Lincoln Red Baron 309/ 309 for lighter or 
different steels applications and for higher alloys I have been using 
Lincoln Blue Max 2100. I find that in repairing things like this the weld 
area might not be the only crack in the piece. I find that the Blue Max can 
produce a strong clean weld with out putting a lot of heat into the piece.

   I might do the first pass in 3/32 then any additional passes in 1/8. 
Looks nice and shiny and doesn't match the steel color at all. I have done 
repairs on non main leafs with good luck and even got away with a main leaf 
break repair for a while, but people who over load a truck will continue to 
do so. I would try a test piece with spring scrap for something I care 
about and only want to do once.
Larry
(Welding is almost a blacksmithing topic, not too off topic if it's to fix 
a Power Hammer)

At 07:28 AM 8/25/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Larry,  If it breaks - we'll probably forge out another one.
>
>The option is still available to weld up with stainless however.  What are
>you calling the SS blue rods?   308?,  309?, or the high strength alloy rods
>for die repairs like the MG750?
>
>My hopes are that the six hours it took to do the job from start to finish
>is the last time we have to deal with it!   (hopeful grin with slight
>question)
>
>Ralph