[TheForge] Fluorospar (was: Flux, was rust & pickling)
Paul Hewitt
[email protected]
Fri Aug 22 00:16:04 2003
OK Ya'll got any idea what TEFLON is????? Think FLOURIDES then THINK
TEFLON.......... don't burn it don't eat it and worst of all don't ever
cook in a Teflon pan that's scratched and scorched. Teflon is inert
totally, until you burn or cause it to decay. Life is full of toxic things,
your brand new carpet has more toxins in it that the guy that took a drag
off the cigarette.
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Mundt" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Fluorospar (was: Flux, was rust & pickling)
> Heard a story years ago about a guy turning plastic which contained
> flourides. He laid a cigarette on the lathe bed, some plastic shavings
feel
> on it , next drag on the cigarette he inhaled the flourides and died from
> it.
> Randy Mundt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Freeman" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 8:49 AM
> Subject: [TheForge] Fluorospar (was: Flux, was rust & pickling)
>
>
> Let me throw in my 2 cents on fluorospar.
>
> Any time you see that "fluoro" in a chemical or mineral name, there's a
good
> chance there's fluoride present. Inorganic fluoride is the same thing put
> in water for the good of your teeth, but in much greater concentrations is
a
> toxin. If you're working with fluoride-containing flux, you're exposing
> yourself to potentially toxic fluoride levels. You're fre to do that if
you
> like, but I'd suggest you read up on it first, and not just plunge in.
>
> Try an MSDS for sodium fluoride as a starting point.
>
> Bruce
> NJ
>
> >>> [email protected] 08/20/03 08:54PM >>>
> I just tried drying out my borax today. I placed about 4lbs. of 20
> mule into an electric deep frier (no oil, just dry). Cooked it without
> the lid on till I stopped seeing water vapor condense on a cold glass
> above the pot. Took about 4 hours.
> I made a batch of modified japanese sword-smiths flux (in this ratio: 3
> borax, 3 boric acid, 3 anvil scale, 1 salt, 1 bandsaw swarf) and tried
> it out. It is quite an improvement over plain, hydrous borax. I could
> stick two 1/2" round bars together in the fire and have the adhesion be
> strong enough to hold them together while I pulled them out of the fire
> and over to the anvil. Also, the residue from this flux doesn't seem to
> be white like plain borax, it color matched the pieces quite well.
> I'd highly recommend that anyone who hasn't tried mixing up a batch of
> flux do so.
> Thanks for posting the recipes.
> I ordered 20lbs. of flourspar today to experiment with in the future.
> This additive seems to be the key to getting stainless forge welds to
> work.
>
> theforge is great
>
> On Tuesday, August 19, 2003, at 06:20 PM, Ed F wrote:
>
> > Shees you guys. Yes this has come up before, and about 3 years ago
> > after
> > (the first time) I said that I dried it successfully in the oven
> > there was
> > a bunch of hubbub about maybe it would work and maybe it wouldn't, and
> > finally someone suggested that it might be worth trying.
> >
> > After all this talk has anyone else tried that? Would someone
> > *PLEASE* go
> > put some on a cookie sheet and stick in the oven? Again, stir it
> > while it's
> > drying or it will cake up.
> >
> > Ed
> Cameron Stoker
> [email protected]
> "May you run like a vicu�a!"
> pgp key @ http://keys.stoker.net
>
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