[TheForge] propane lines

Thu Aug 21 11:56:08 2003

The cheesy plastic rings on the end of those hoses for seals are terrible.
They will leak gas the first time they are bumped.  propane is a
hydrocarbon, which makes it a solvent.  Being a solvent means that it will
dissolve and weaken many plastics, aka air hoses and other materials.
Propane hoses have a special type of rubber liner to prevent this from
happening.  My shop uses brazed copper lines, and about 70 psi inside the
copper, each "machine" has its own regulator and gauges by which to set the
operating pressure.  The interconnects in the shop are made from 3/8"
polyurethane heavy wall tubing, its flexible and impervious to propane.  We
use 3/8 push locks, to connect the hoses on each end.  If a line is in
danger of being struck by something we jacket it with a piece of 1/2"
electrical conduit to protect it from damage.  All the quick disconnects
have overbleed valves, which means if you do break a line, and the hose is
WOT, then the valve shuts that line off almost instantly.  (Also protects
idiots in my shop that feel the need to turn things on wide open throttle to
see what hill happen, its very amusing when they come to ask why the propane
doesn't work but all the other valves work.)

Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howell Steve" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 6:24 AM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] propane lines

> Andy, what about using a flex-hose from a gas hot water heater instead of
a
> braided one? I think you can get them in 3/8, 1/2 or 3/4" npt. They're not
> as supple as braided lines but will stand up to the occasional bumping of
> the forge table and not rattle the pipes overhead.
>
> Steve
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gladish [mailto:[email protected]]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 8:12 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] propane lines
>
>
> Ralph- thanks for all the pointers.
> The tank regulator only gives me about ten psi, plenty for a blown forge,
> and I do have a standard regulator on the grill. Still looking for braided
> hose to put on quick connects- there's a valve on each drop-down, too,
along
> with one outside where the propane comes out of the ground.
> Andy G.
>
> <Andy,  For safety with quick connects and propane whips, consider a wire
> > braided hose suitable for propane as a whip hose from steel to your
forge.
> > Put shut offs at the forge, at the wall where the hose connects,
> > at the wall
> > where it goes outside, on the outside wall, and at the
> > tank.........this way
> > if a hose breaks you can go to the safest place to shut it off.
> > When a 1/4
> > or 3/8 propane supply line breaks it is not like your usualy break in
the
> > line on a gas grille!   Gas Grilles run at 11" water column which
computes
> > to about 1 1/2 psi.  You'll be running gas forges at 5-20 psi depending
on
> > what you've built/bought, or how far away it is from the supply pipe(as
> > pressure will drop over distance - good to have guage on forge to tell).
> >         In a shop situation there is always a chance something
> > hot or heavy
> > can fall into or onto a gas supply line if your not the only one
> > in the shop
> > aware of what is in that hose and what damage it can cause.
> >         Make sure you use a regulator before the gas grille, if you are
> > serious about grilling near your shop with the same supply line.  You
have
> > to cut the pressure to a grille back to the 11" of water column.
> >         As always with gas manifolds..........check for leaks
> > before using!
> >
> > Ralph
>
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