[TheForge] Re: Rust,pickling
Chuck Robinson
[email protected]
Thu Aug 14 11:06:02 2003
Try to get pure borax, not the 20 mule team type of household borax.
The caking inhibitors in it tend to make it inferior as a fluxing compound.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Spencer" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2003 1:48 AM
Subject: [TheForge] Re: Rust,pickling
>
> Grant> Mike: Did you know that you can buy USP grade anhydrous borax
> Grant> at most chemical supply houses.
>
> I would have assumed so. Degree in chemistry and all that. But
> there's a great shortage of chemical supply houses in NS. Of the two
> I've dealt with in the past, one closed and the other dropped
> chemicals from their mixed bag of products. Fisher once had a
> distributor here but no longer. Other hassles too numerous and boring
> to mention. Soon I'm going to be looking for more nitric and
> phosphoric acids and some other stuff and it's going to be a bother.
> Cooking my own borax is boring but not a bother. :-)
> z
> > Do you normally use EZ Weld "Anti Borax"?
>
> Um, I'm not sure I know. I have some Cherry Heat (That's right, isn't
> it?) but that's the stuff with no filings. I have half a five pound
> wooden box of what I *think* is EZ Weld but years ago the box got too
> near the fire and the label charred off. And I have most of a 10# box
> of something that looks similar but thebox was so beaten up when I got
> it (with a bunck ofother stuff) that I can't tell what it is. Works
> good, though.
>
> I've experimented with adding m/s dust (pulled from grinder dust with
> a magnet) and/or manganese dioxide to anhydrous borax but neither
> seemed to make a great deal of difference.
>
> - Mike
>
> --
> Michael Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada .~.
> /V\
> [email protected] /( )\
> http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/ ^^-^^
>
> --
>
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