[TheForge] Hammer foundations

Mon Aug 11 07:23:00 2003

        Kevin and Scott, Eric basicly took and isolated the three power
hammer bases he was going to do by making a 4' x 12' sand pit with a wood
perimeter frame.  He then put 275 oil drums (cut in half vertically) in the
sand pit and filled around them.  The drums allowed you to weld the rebar
and hammer bolt pattern to the tank, the pour your crete into it for the
foundation weight.
        The half tanks had large spring U-bolts welded to it, and if you
ever changed hammers, you could remove the hammer, pull the tank out with a
tractor, put in another half drum and redo a bolt pattern & foundation.
        Leaving the drum up a few inches left a nice apron to work against
for the treadles on the small hammer, but it put the hammer at height also -
with little thought to bolt lengths or blocking.
        Eric used a bunch of great ideas for his shop floor also which
included weld strips in the floor pour, floor pockets, and a buried ground
cable to the weld strips to ground sculpture and his work table to.  One
less wire to trip on..........and a boom carries his stinger and wire
feeder.  The weld strips are channels set at 4' on center so a half sheet or
full sheet can be applied to the floor as a base to a sculpture for working
from.  It works slick.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin donahoe" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 11:33 PM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Hammer foundations


> Ralph,
>
> I'd like those pictures of Ziner's hammer foundation idea.  Thanks.
>
> I'm in the process of figuring out how to mount an old Belden 100# hammer.
> Seems I've heard a bit of different stuff lately about heavy fabricated
> bases that aren't attached to the slab; or at least aren't set on a yard
or
> two of concrete ala' the Little Giant poured block.  I did get to take a
> power hammer class with Clifton Ralph several years ago down in Tenn. and
> that 100# LG was simply bolted to the shop's pad and was gradually
> pulverizing it.  I like the idea of a fabricated/stone filled base as it
> seems easier than digging out a 2-3 foot hole and filling it with
concrete.
>
> Anyone have any insights or links/references to alternatives to the poured
> pad?  Thanks,
>
> Kevin Donahoe
> Flying Pig Forge
> Morrow, OH
> [email protected]
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of Ralph Sproul
> Sent: Sunday, 10 August, 2003 8:41 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Hammer foundations
>
>
>         Hi Steve,   I think your friends's treadle hammer might crack a
> driveway that would be 1 - 1 1/2" thick of hot top.........but I don't
think
> it would touch a 7 1/2" concrete slab.  A rubber pad under it would help
> considerably with shock applied directly to the crete.  If you question
it,
> the plate you mention to spread the load would be cheap insurance to cut
the
> lbs per sq inch the hammer would transfer to the floor.
>         Talking of rubber pads - that's how I'd deal with the air hammer
> also.  I've had my air hammer (50 lb Kinyon clone) on the 5 1/2" thick
> concrete floor in my shop with no problems(for five years now).  One thing
> out here in Maine you want to do is make sure any new gravel under the
floor
> is WELL compacted.  Having the gravel settle under your floors is the
> fastest way to split them if using a hammer on the floor.  Don't skimp on
> renting a compactor before pouring your floor would be my advice in the
> construction of your barn.
>         If you intend to put a mechanical hammer in and need a footing
like
> you mention with the threaded rod and pipe into the footer, let me know.
I
> can send you pictures of what Eric Ziner did at his shop up on Deer Isle,
> Maine.  It keeps the shock isolated from the floor and makes for a
removable
> foundation system for other hammers in the future.  Pretty clever, but
you'd
> need to plan ahead before pouring your floor........or you'll be cutting
out
> a section, and 7 1/2" is pretty thick to cut out if it sets for a while.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Smith" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 7:40 AM
> Subject: [TheForge] Hammer foundations
>
>
> > I get a small part of the barn we're having put up, about 300 sq. feet.
> > It is being built with a floating slab, 7 1/2" thick. I need to consider
> > an air hammer and a treadle hammer.
> >
> > Treadle hammer:
> > A friend of mine put his TH in the driveway with no pad. The drive is
> > cracking and chipping under the anvil end. Clearly a pad is a good idea;
> > how large of a footprint does a TH need? Mine is on the small side, and
> > I'm wondering if I should put a metal plate under, then a pad or if just
> > a pad will do. The base on mine is about 12" wide 5/8" thick, with two
> > 6" ears at the anvil end.
> >
> > Air Hammer:
> > The yet unfinished air hammer will be about 40 pound head weight, self
> > contained variety. I used to have a 25 pound Little Giant, which I
> > mounted per recommended foundation plans. For those who aren't familiar,
> >   the recommended approach has the mounting bolts made from threaded rod
> > which ties into the rebar, and runs up through pipe sleeves so the ends
> > of the rod have some give. While I think this approach makes good sense,
> > I've just moved and many of my shop tools aren't easily set up (not
> > having a shop...). Does anyone have experience with simpler methods of
> > mounting?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve Smith
> >
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