[TheForge] Hammer foundations

Sun Aug 10 09:09:00 2003

Steve,  I have belting if you can't find any locally.

        My air hammer sits on a rubber pad with NO fasteners.  It has not
moved in five years.  Mechanical hammers - well that's different.
        My 50 lb Little Giant has a 1/2 yard of crete with 20" bolts going
into a pipe and rebar system like you mentioned. It works well.  I also have
2" maple blocks under the isolator pad (conveyor belting) and it really
makes a nice perch for the hammer housing.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Smith" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Hammer foundations

> Anyone have any rubber or conveyor belting?
>
> Ralph, so you don't even have the concrete under your hammer as a
> separate piece from the rest of the slab. Sounds like a good way to go.
> How do you attach the hammer to the floor?
>
> We're having a local contractor put up the building, I will make sure
> they do a good job compacting.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
> Ralph Sproul wrote:
>
> >         Hi Steve,   I think your friends's treadle hammer might crack a
> > driveway that would be 1 - 1 1/2" thick of hot top.........but I don't
think
> > it would touch a 7 1/2" concrete slab.  A rubber pad under it would help
> > considerably with shock applied directly to the crete.  If you question
it,
> > the plate you mention to spread the load would be cheap insurance to cut
the
> > lbs per sq inch the hammer would transfer to the floor.
> >         Talking of rubber pads - that's how I'd deal with the air hammer
> > also.  I've had my air hammer (50 lb Kinyon clone) on the 5 1/2" thick
> > concrete floor in my shop with no problems(for five years now).  One
thing
> > out here in Maine you want to do is make sure any new gravel under the
floor
> > is WELL compacted.  Having the gravel settle under your floors is the
> > fastest way to split them if using a hammer on the floor.  Don't skimp
on
> > renting a compactor before pouring your floor would be my advice in the
> > construction of your barn.
> >         If you intend to put a mechanical hammer in and need a footing
like
> > you mention with the threaded rod and pipe into the footer, let me know.
I
> > can send you pictures of what Eric Ziner did at his shop up on Deer
Isle,
> > Maine.  It keeps the shock isolated from the floor and makes for a
removable
> > foundation system for other hammers in the future.  Pretty clever, but
you'd
> > need to plan ahead before pouring your floor........or you'll be cutting
out
> > a section, and 7 1/2" is pretty thick to cut out if it sets for a while.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Smith" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 7:40 AM
> > Subject: [TheForge] Hammer foundations
> >
> >
> >
> >>I get a small part of the barn we're having put up, about 300 sq. feet.
> >>It is being built with a floating slab, 7 1/2" thick. I need to consider
> >>an air hammer and a treadle hammer.
> >>
> >>Treadle hammer:
> >>A friend of mine put his TH in the driveway with no pad. The drive is
> >>cracking and chipping under the anvil end. Clearly a pad is a good idea;
> >>how large of a footprint does a TH need? Mine is on the small side, and
> >>I'm wondering if I should put a metal plate under, then a pad or if just
> >>a pad will do. The base on mine is about 12" wide 5/8" thick, with two
> >>6" ears at the anvil end.
> >>
> >>Air Hammer:
> >>The yet unfinished air hammer will be about 40 pound head weight, self
> >>contained variety. I used to have a 25 pound Little Giant, which I
> >>mounted per recommended foundation plans. For those who aren't familiar,
> >>  the recommended approach has the mounting bolts made from threaded rod
> >>which ties into the rebar, and runs up through pipe sleeves so the ends
> >>of the rod have some give. While I think this approach makes good sense,
> >>I've just moved and many of my shop tools aren't easily set up (not
> >>having a shop...). Does anyone have experience with simpler methods of
> >>mounting?
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>Steve Smith
> >>
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