[TheForge] Stick welding question]

Sat Aug 9 20:06:01 2003

        Bill, Thanks for the reply.  I have seen this white powder on the
rods you mention and there are cases of them that I was going to put in the
oven "some day".........now I think I'll put them in the scrap pile.
        I've been on jobs that required ovens for the 7018 in building
towers and large machinery set ups (sawmills, cement plants, and chip
plants).  Cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned.........as we often welded
rain or shine to complete the jobs on time for the customer to get working.
        I've always thougth 6010 was the DC version of an AC 6011.......hard
digging, fast freeze, good mild steel, and general repair rod.  The 6011
running thru some of the most crudy situations(oil, grease, paint, rust etc)
and holding that I could not believe it at times.
        On the other hand the 7014 I've used for real nice flowing beads and
is more of an "overlay bead" than a penetrator or for using in stringer bead
applications(on AC).  The 6013 being the DC version of that build up rod for
repairs or surface welding.  I'd use it on thin wall tubing with stick
welding to not blow thru like the 6010 would tend to do(in the past).  Now
I'd just use a mig for surface treatment for repairs or for surface welding
of thinner parts to keep from blowing holes.    This isn't from looking
anything up, but more on what I remember when I did nothing but stick
welding.  Now I have three mig welders so using stick welding now just seems
like working at 1/4 of the results which is what the customer is interested
in.  Heavy winds being the definite case where I'll break out the Electorde
stinger.  I actually enjoy stick welding on occassion to keep my hand at it.
        While I'm on the topic of stick welding and we're talking tricks of
the trade here, I have a stinger that I use that you may appreciate.  I took
a TIG gun cable that has the gas and woven copper conductor in it........it
is very light as far as a cable goes.......and that is just the trick.  Cut
the damaged or burnt out old TIG torch off and hook up a stick electrode
holder of your favorite configuration to it (I happen to like the twist top
heads).  It makes a real light 10-15 foot whip (which is all you have to
hold up all day) and it will more than carry the 75-125 amps you usually
weld stick with outside.  Most of our root passes were 1/8 and that light
welding whip at the end of the day makes your hands ache less.  Hope you
find it helpful.

Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woolley" <[email protected]>
To: "Ralph Sproul" <[email protected]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 6:06 PM
Subject: [Fwd: Re: [TheForge] Stick welding question]


>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Stick welding question
> Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 17:56:27 -0400
> From: Woolley <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> References: <003201c35cee$63877760$50aa62d1@oemcomputer>
> <[email protected]> <001201c35da0$b1a16200$cccb2340@brhlbsmtnh>
>
>
>
> Ralph,
>  In my experience, 7018, 8018, 9018 et al  can be stored in a dry place
> without a problem.  When I was working as a boilermaker, I worked on
> Limerick II when it was being built( one of PECO's nukes in PA).  I had
> a pipe welding certification there.  You could not draw rod from the
> designated place where it was dispensed without it coming from an oven.
>  You wouldn't  need to keep it in an oven before welding for most plate
> jobs but you would for pipe welding.  So keeping the rod at certain
> temperatures is only a must for certain applications.  The one thing I
> know for sure is it aids in striking the arc initially, which will help
> keep your starts free from porosity. As far as 6010 goes, if it gets wet
> the flux is ruined.  It will just come off the rod.  If you heat it in
> an oven the flux gets  a chalky  white deposit of some kind.  IMO, if it
> gets wet, it's done.  Low hydrogen rod can be dried in an oven to take
> moisture out or probably just used but if it gets soaked it's shot from
> what I've been told.  I've never been so hard up for rod to try to use
> rod that's been soaked.  I also don't own a rod oven.  I haven't used
> much AC/DC  or strictly AC rod since all I ever use my AC machine for
> was  Tig welding AL.  The little 6013 rod that I've used has had
> characteristics very similiar to 6010 from a welding standpoint so I
> would assume you would have to treat it the same way although I'm not
> sure.  Now I'm curious.
>
> Cheers,
> Bill Woolley