[TheForge] 36" diameter ring

Tue Aug 5 23:33:00 2003

With any of the methods mentioned (other than the Hossfeld), it is very 
difficult to keep 2" wide stock from twisting on you. One method I've found 
to help reduce the twisting effect is to work opposite sides.

In other words, When using the step, or vee block, very few people can 
strike a blow that is perfect in angle and that strikes evenly across the 
stock, most of us have a certain "tendency" to strike a particular angle, 
this is rarely "perfect".  To combat this, make one pass while standing on 
one side of the anvil, then make another pass while standing on the other 
side. Sounds funny but it works...

Same principle applies when using forks, its tough to apply even pressure 
all the way across the stock. With the handle to one side there is the 
tendency to apply more pressure to that side (typically the top). On pass 2 
flip your stock, This is especially salient if your fork fingers are not as 
long as your stock is wide.

just a few things I've discovered over the years...    and unless your a 
masochist I'd MIG/TIG or stick weld it.  esp if its mild steel.

mike

PS if you've got to make a mistake, go short,  its a whole bunch easier to 
stretch it, than it is to shrink it...

At 09:03 PM 8/5/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>I usually do this on the step of the anvil, I also have a jig for fussier 
>stuff.   Use a heavy straight peen hammer, lay the iron in line with the 
>horn on the step, and smack the iron where it is unsupported.
>Start with light blows, constantly moving the metal, guaging the curve 
>that develops.  If you need more curve in one place, smack it there a 
>little harder.  If you over bend it a little, lay it curve up across the 
>face of the anvil at the problem spot and smack it.  I do 1" by 1/4" this 
>way cold all the time. I also do 1/2" round stack cold  as well.  I can't 
>recall doing 1/4"  by 2", so it might require heating, which makes it a 
>little more difficult.    I also have a jig for doing this which is 1" 
>diameter bars welded on a plate about 4 inches apart.  I have also use a 
>section of 6" channel upside down on the anvil before.
>
>
>Charles
>
>Bob Rackers wrote:
>
>>I need to make a ring 36" in diameter from 2" x 1/4".
>>Although I may call a friend to use his tire roller, I am curious about 
>>hearing
>>of other methods of making it.
>>I can't bend it over the horn of the anvil, since the top of the horn is only
>>31" above the floor.
>>
>>I'm sure someone will suggest bending forks, and I'd like to know how you 
>>make
>>sure you do it evenly and check your progress as you go along.
>>
>>Last question is the rule of thumb for final length of the stock in order to
>>forge-weld the ring together.
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>Bob
>>
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>>
>
>_______________________________________________
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            Mike Linn
      Artist Blacksmith
          McCalla, AL
        AFC Webmaster
http://afc.abana-chapter.net

Some people are like Slinkies...not really good for
anything, but you still can't help but smile when you
see one tumble down the stairs.