[TheForge] 36" diameter ring
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[email protected]
Tue Aug 5 23:24:00 2003
There are several ways to figure it mathmatically, several people have
already responded with those methods, complete with bend allowance. If
you have the kettle, nothing beats trial fitting to the actual object,
and then marking it. In that case, you wouldn't weld the ends until the
very end. Cutting it in advance to an exact length is not likely to
give you as tight a fit since the operations you undertake to shape it
will stretch the metal some (why else would it curve). Forge welding
will make it even more difficult to figure the end diameter. Further,
if the kettle is not perfectly round, it will further frustrate you
efforts. For something large I usually multiply 3.14 x diameter
desired then add several inches and cut to length after I have it
shaped. Even on small things, I will do the same. I made several
dozen stands and hangers to hold clay pots last year for a friend with a
garden center. The rings had to catch the upper lip of the pot, which
was only 1/8" to 1/4" step, so it had to fit pretty tight. The
secret to getting it round is patience and not trying to do it in one
pass, regardless of wether you use a bending jig, forks or a bender. I
have a ring roller as well, andsleak up on the diameter with that one
too. It is much easier to increase the curve with another tap, than to
take the curve out. You only want to put a barely perceptable bend in
the metal each time as you work your way around. After a couple of
passes you will have a good feel for how agressive you can be. If you
start to form a helix, you can take it out with careful bending, or you
can peen the metal on the inside curve of the helix till it straightens.
Charles
Bob Rackers wrote:
>I know figuring the length is a little more complicated than that.
>I have a carriage-maker friend who makes tires all the time, and he gave me the
>calculation he uses, but of course, I've forgotten it.
>I'll post it when I get it from him again.
>
>Bob
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