[TheForge] Electrolytic rust reclaiming

Tue Oct 29 15:59:01 2002

Dave...

   Using the electrolytic process will save more of the detail in the
panels than any other method.  After that protection in that
environment is a big order.  I think you mentioned that you have
already found a suitable coating for this.  The other Dave was just
answering my, ( as always), need to know more... it drives my wife
crazy too. LOL

   Jeff   ><>

----- Original Message -----
From: "lama" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Electrolytic rust reclaiming

> DaveB, I'm glad that y'all have enlightened us with the chemistry
lessons.
> But all I wanted to do was to remove the rust. I wasn't looking to
> convert oxides to iron or anything so elaborate as all that. Just
want to
> stop
> what the chlorine started and seal the iron from the atmosphere.
> dave m
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Brown" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 1:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Electrolytic rust reclaiming
>
>
> > At 12:53 10/29/02 -0500, you wrote:
> > >I'm no expert on this.  I'm only applying my knowledge of
chemistry.
> > >
> > >Iron III oxide is red.  Iron II oxide is black.  Rust is iron III
oxide,
> > >Fe2O3.  Scale is iron II oxide, FeO.  I SUSPECT the black is FeO.
> >
> > This is consistent with what my brother-in-law the family
electro-chemist
> > says.  The red oxide (rust) gets converted to free oxygen and
black oxide
> > (same as fire scale).  The further reduction of this black oxide
to iron
> > requires a lot more energy than you use in the electrolytic rust
reduction
> > process ... he says you pretty much have to go through the
smelting
> process
> > to get rid of the remaining oxygen atom and leave the iron behind.
> >
> > The good part about the black oxide residue is that it's light and
not
> > tightly bound to the surface and brushes/wipes/washes off quite
easily.
> >
> >
> > Dave Brown
>
>
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