[TheForge] Oil Finish

Sun Nov 10 22:00:01 2002

Below is the finish that George Dixon used at the Yellin shop.  I have used
it since first hearing about it and find it great.

Harry Foster
Rusty Dog Forge
Pontiac, Quebec

>I use the linseed oil and turpentine finish that I picked up working at
>Yellin's.

>If, for example, you use a one pound coffee can;
>60% linseed oil (boiled)
>40% turpentine
>one 8 oz bottle of japan drier (or pale drying oil)

>Apply at room temp to clean (hand sanded) metalwork with a brush (rags
>can't fit where a brush can and brushes don't leave lint).  Once dry, apply
a coat
>of paste wax with a brush.  Allow the wax to dry and buff with a shoe brush
(again,
>no rags-no lint).  Repeat the waxing two more times.

Since the metal and the coating are at room temperature the outcome is
even and quick
when compared to heating a rail before coating it.

I have interior work well over a decade old, coated as described, with
no rust at all.

Take care,
George Dixon

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of Woolley
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 9:01 PM
To: Forge list
Subject: [TheForge] Oil Finish

Greetings,

I'm fabricating some tables with 5/8 square mild steel.  The millscale
is intact/untouched in the process.  The last ones I did had a used
motor oil then light paste wax finish.  Seems to darken the steel just
enough to give a pleasing look. (the client likes it)  I don't have the
time to experiment with every oil known to man, nor do I think it would
make any difference.  I don't want to use the used motor oil anymore.
Does anyone have any favorite quick finishes that would have the same
effect?  I hope this isn't too tired a subject.  Thanks.

Regards,
Bill Woolley
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