[TheForge] A small project, questions from a new hammer.

[Ralph E Douglass]

Phlip wrote:
> 
> Dave skrev:
> 
> > On Tue, 2002-06-04 at 16:05, Phlip wrote:
> > > Not sure how big it is- do you know, or does it have markings? but if it
> > > rings nicely, you may want to use something to dampen the sound- it can
> > > really get on your nerves after a while.
> >
> > The markings are obscured, it needs a good solid cleaning and a couple
> > hours with a hand grinder.  I'll throw up some pictures soon as I can.
> > The ringing comment was more along the lines of "This isn't dead iron".
> > I'll probably dig up a decent sized stump to mount it on, most likely on
> > a flat creeper so I can move it around (its on a creeper now, but
> > sitting on a pair of I-beams.  Too low for me.  [I'm 6'6"])
> 
> OK, FWIW- standard working height for an anvil is to have the face level
> with where your knuckles hit with a closed fist. This is because that's just
> about the ideal spot for max power and accuracy at the end of your swing.
> 
> Depending on your physical strength, rather than putting the anvil on a
> creeper, which has the unfortunate habit of moving at the most irritating
> times, you might want to go with a rounded stump, with the feet well
> anchored into it, and you can roll the entire thing on edge where ever you
> need it in the shop. Duke Andrew's were set up like that, and I had little
> difficulty moving them around as necessary (150 +), and it was often
> necessary, since at the time, he was in a wheelchair and I was afoot, so
> comfort for either of us was very different.

Anvil height.... That is a good question.
The knuckle rule works well if you are going to be using a striker. I
have found, as well as most folks I talk with, that the anvil setpoint
is variable depending on the type of work done. Are you going to be
doing small and detailed stuff? If so an anvil set at knuckle height
will kill your back as you lean over a lot to see clearly the details of
your work, so in this case a higher anvil would be better. But if you
are doing less detail work and much work on larger stock (larger than
1/2 inch stock) a lower anvil will facilitate a full hammer swing and
consequently harder hit. 
Many smiths I know have several anvils set at all differnet heights just
for this reason. But my one and only anvil is set just about 2 fingers
width above the hanging knuckle height. And my back is happy when
working small details, but I can work heavy stock with no problems.

BTW as to grinding on an anvil. I would ask why? Unless it has large
pits and craters in the work area I would say hold off till you have
used it a bit.
I would hate to see someone grind off the remaining steel plate off
their anvil.
If it is mostly surface rust just use it. The work will remove the rust.
Or take a wire brush to it.
But then again I am in the school of thought that you should not do
anvil repairs unless it is absolutly needed, and then rethink it twice
before doing it.
Cast steel anvils would not be a problem, but a wrought iron anvil with
a welded steel face might have the plate pop off after a repair. Same
with the Fisher cast iron/steel plate anvils.

Ralph
-- 




                                                        
					
"Good is the enemy of Excellent. Talent is not necessary for Excellence.
Persistence is necessary for Excellence. And Persistence is a Decision."