[TheForge] A small project, questions from a new hammer.

[Phlip]

Dave skrev:

> On Tue, 2002-06-04 at 16:05, Phlip wrote:
> > Not sure how big it is- do you know, or does it have markings? but if it
> > rings nicely, you may want to use something to dampen the sound- it can
> > really get on your nerves after a while.
>
> The markings are obscured, it needs a good solid cleaning and a couple
> hours with a hand grinder.  I'll throw up some pictures soon as I can.
> The ringing comment was more along the lines of "This isn't dead iron".
> I'll probably dig up a decent sized stump to mount it on, most likely on
> a flat creeper so I can move it around (its on a creeper now, but
> sitting on a pair of I-beams.  Too low for me.  [I'm 6'6"])

OK, FWIW- standard working height for an anvil is to have the face level
with where your knuckles hit with a closed fist. This is because that's just
about the ideal spot for max power and accuracy at the end of your swing.

Depending on your physical strength, rather than putting the anvil on a
creeper, which has the unfortunate habit of moving at the most irritating
times, you might want to go with a rounded stump, with the feet well
anchored into it, and you can roll the entire thing on edge where ever you
need it in the shop. Duke Andrew's were set up like that, and I had little
difficulty moving them around as necessary (150 +), and it was often
necessary, since at the time, he was in a wheelchair and I was afoot, so
comfort for either of us was very different.

I have my stump cut and set up for just that purpose, although I still need
a proper anvil. But, for the meantime, I can configure my two RR track
anvils and my vise for amazing comfort in doing projects.

> > Ummm, not a good idea for a first project. I'll tell you why in a
moment.
>
> Several folks have pointed out that reheating tempered and potentially
> annealed steel is going to cause it to lose its temper ("Bad smith!  No
> hammer biscuit!"), so I'm going to shelve the old blades and just pick
> up a new set.

Good choice ;-) It's not that it couldn't be done, or that it even couldn't
be done by a very careful, well guided, new smith, it's just that unless
done _precisely_ right, it could be extremely dangerous. I'm assuming here,
from your name, that you are a male, and an intact male, and would prefer to
stay that way. Even if you don't, I suspect you'd prefer dealing with Drs,
sterile blades, and anesthesia. I've seen those things go a couple of times,
and they usually fly at waist level ;-)

> Using the metal for other projects will be good though... I'll start
> accumulating my scrap pile :)

Look around- you may have more stuff than you think you do ;-)

> > [comments bout building a coal forge]
> > You'll also need some kind of blower.....
>
> This has puzzled me a bit.  From looking at Ken's forge, and other
> models I've seen, it looks like the blower blows -directly- up under the
> coal grate... is this correct?  It sounds like it would blow ash and
> crud everywhere.

Well, it can- depends on the air volume you shoot through it. But most of
what you're burning turns into either smoke or clinkers. Clinkers sink to
the bottom, and ash and smoke go into the top of the building, like any coal
fire. Remind me to tell you sometime, about having to get up into the top of
a well-used smithing garage, and coming back down in full blackface (and
hands, and clothes...) That one's at least a two beer story ;-)

Old blow dryers can work fine for a blower, btw- you just need to put a gate
in to control the air flow.

> If I build my own coal arrangement, which I must admit appeals to the
> traditionalist in me - even though I'm sure I'll be working gas as well,
> I can put something together with brick and stone that'll have a passage
> for air under the grate, pointing 'up', next to the smoke chimney - I
> understand the concept of offsetting the chimney behind the heat point
> and using its 'draw' to pull smoke and cinder away from the smith...
> (seems eerie, but I've seen it work.  Neat :)

I'd suggest starting with a simple brakedrum forge. They're cheap enough to
make, and by the time you finish tuning it to your preferences, you'll know
enough about what you want in your permanent forge.

> > Actually, you could make worse choices than charcoal briquettes ;-) Bad
> > coal, for one ;-O
>
> Interesting.  I got a brief on coal from Ken - use small chunks (1 to 1
> 1/2", rather than the 3+" pieces that are usually around now), and have
> a lot of fine material... powder / grit is -good-)

Well, yeah, but different coals have different amounts of heat they give
out, and proportions of garbage to carbon. What you really want is coke,
which is easy enough to make on your forge, while you're working, as part of
your fire management. Too much clinker is a pain to deal with.

Myself, I want to work more with charcoal, since it's what was used as the
primary fuel source in the periods I'm reenacting, but so far, I haven't
found a good source around here.

> > > Thanks, and I'm officially addicted.  Alas.
> >
> > OK. You have several problems here. First and foremost, is that you
don't
> > really understand what you're doing, the nature of the materials and
tools
> > you're working with, and so forth. Basicly you know that if you heat
metal,
> > it gets soft and you can shape it with a hammer.
>
> That's... a pretty good analysis of where I am.

Been there- we all have ;-)

> > Where are you? Maybe one of us is close enough to help you get started?
>
> Akshully, Marc Godbout is in Derry, and we're talking about doing a
> gas-forge assembly soon.  I'll need firebrick and plumbing, not to
> mention decent workspace in the garage (which I don't have at the
> moment. Gotta move some old projects.

Well, maybe we'll meet up some time. You might look at the
Smithing/metalworking event I've been talking about in Mass. It's SCA, but
we'll be making accomodations for non-SCA smiths- my household has agreed to
take care of y'all, and help you fit in. Myself, I figure anyone with a
hammer and a love of playing with fire, will do just fine....

Phlip